Saturday, January 20, 2007

Die Party an Liebhartsgasse

So after dinner, for the most part we sat around and chilled. Well, the other flatties did, I just kind of kept eating for about two hours straight. Yes, I will be fat when I get home at the end of the semester. But it's just more to love, right?

Set-up for our party included putting our tables in the girls' bedrooms and moving the chairs along the walls. Then we have this little hutch thing on wheels that we turned so that it would be like a bar. Jeremy was the bartender for the evening (he does some for real on the side) so he took care of his little area behind the hutch. Then all we had to do was wait for everybody to show up. Since they got lost, it took a while. We had a good time, music was pretty ok and the people were nice. But around 12 we kicked them out and told them to go find a bar because we didn't want to annoy our landpeople, who live above us. And I made up a new drink, which I think is very tasty. Its amaretto and apple juice. And since we were out of orange juice, it worked out very nicely (I bought four liters of apple juice because it was on sale).

After our guests and most of the flatties had left, me, Alison, and Laura watched The Mummy 2, which was dubbed into German. I could follow parts of it, but I think it was more because I had seen it before and knew what the plot was than actually understanding all of the German that was spoken. And I realized what a cheesy movie it is. I mean, it's funny, but the budget must have been really small. So now I'm just sitting around, waiting for Matt to get home from dinner so I can talk to him on AIM. And since I have nothing better to do, I'll give you some info on the places I visited today.

Like I mentioned in my post from yesterday, I was kind of out of it during the lecture, just because I was tired, so I didn't get as much from that as I would have liked. But after the lecture we got on two buses and started our tour. First, we went around Ringstraße, which is is a circular road surrounding the Innere Stadt district of Vienna, Austria and is one of its main sights. It is typical of the historical style called Ringstraßenstil (Ringstraße Style) of the 1860s to 1890s.

The street was built to replace the city walls, which had been built during the 13th century and reinforced as a consequence of the First Turkish Siege in 1529, and instead of the glacis, which was about 500m wide. The fortification had been obsolete since the late 18th century, but the Revolution of 1848 was required to trigger a significant change.

In 1850, the Vorstädte (today the Districts II to IX) were incorporated into the municipality, which made the city walls a simple impediment to traffic. In 1857, Emperor Franz Joseph I of Austria issued his famous decree "It is My will" (Es ist Mein Wille at Wikisource) ordering the demolition of the city walls and moats. In his decree, he laid out the exact size of the boulevard, as well as the geographical positions and functions of the new building. The Ringstraße and the planned buildings were intended to be a showcase for imperial Habsburg grandeur and the glory of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. On the practical level, Emperor Napoléon III of France already demonstrated with his boulevard-building in Paris how enlarging the size of the streets effectively made the erection of revolutionary barricades impossible.

Each of the famous buildings on the Ringstraße are built in a different style. Mostly, they fall into the neo- style range because they weren't built at the right times to be considered of the original style.

Most buildings date back to the time before 1870. The most notable ones include:

I know this is a lot of information, but the links here go to the wikipedia articles where you can see pictures of each building. Well, most of them. Some don't have articles linked to them, so you're out of luck.

The Hofburg was extended by an annex, the Neue Hofburg (New Hofburg), which houses the Museum of Ethnology and the Austrian National Library today. On the other side of the street, there are the Kunsthistorisches Museum (Museum of Art History) and the Naturhistorisches Museum (Museum of Natural History), which were built for the imperial collections. Originally, there should have been a parallel wing opposite the Neue Hofburg, which would have been attached to the Museum of Natural History. The Heldenplatz and the Maria-Theresien-Platz would have become the Kaiserforum. However, that plan was shelved for lack of funds.

The construction ended only in 1913 with the completion of the Kriegsministerium (Ministry of War). At that time, the Ringstraßenstil was already somewhat outdated, as is shown by the Postsparkassengebäude (Postal Savings Society Building) by Otto Wagner, which was built at the same time.

The Ringstraße was also generously planned with green areas and trees, the most notable parks being the Stadtpark with the Kursalon, Burggarten, Volksgarten, and Rathausplatz, as well as a number of squares such as the Schwarzenbergplatz, Schillerplatz, Maria-Theresien-Platz and Heldenplatz. Dotted along the Ringstraße are various monuments. They include statues to Goethe, Schiller, Empress Maria Theresia, Prince Eugene of Savoy, Archduke Charles of Austria, the founders of the First Austrian Republic, Athena, Andreas von Liebenberg, Count Radetzky, Georg Coch, and Johann Strauß amongst many.

The biggest catastrophe was the fire of the Ringtheater in 1881, in which several hundred people died. It was subsequently demolished and replaced with the Sühnhof, which was built in memory of the more than 300 victims, and inaugurated by Emperor Franz Joseph. It was destroyed during the bombing of Vienna in 1945; today the municipal police-headquarters is there.

Other buildings that were destroyed or heavily damaged during World War II was the Opera, the opposite building Heinrichshof which was replaced in the 50's with the Kärtnerhof. The Urania observatory, the Kriegsministerium and the Parliament building were heavily damaged, and the Burgtheater burned down. The famous Metropol Hotel, which was located at the Franz-Joseph-Kai, was completely destroyed and replaced with a monument to the victims of Nazism.

Our next stop on the tour was Schloss Belvedere. The Österreichische Galerie Belvedere is one of the world's most important museums with collections spanning from the Middle Ages to the present day. The museum is housed in the Belvedere Palace, which Prince Eugene of Savoy had built as a summer residence. There are two palace buildings: the Upper and Lower Belvedere. The collections of the 19th and 20th centuries are housed in the Upper Belvedere with works by Biedermeier artists (e.g. Ferdinand Georg Waldmüller, Jakob Alt etc.), French Impressionists (e.g. Claude Monet, Auguste Renoir) and masterpieces by Gustav Klimt, Egon Schiele and Oskar Kokoschka. In the Lower Belvedere the Museum of Medieval Art and the Baroque Museum are located. The two buildings are linked by a unique Baroque garden. The entire ensemble ranks among the world's most beautiful and best preserved historic palaces and parks. From the north side of the Upper Belvedere one can appreciate the renowned and stunning view of Vienna.

Lower Belvedere

In 1714 the Austrian general Prince Eugene of Savoy (1663-1736), who was a famous marshall in the Hapsburg army, commissioned the architect Johann Lucas von Hildebrandt (1668-1745) to build the Lower Belvedere. The palace was completed just two years later in 1716. Today, the former living quarters and staterooms of this Baroque summer residence are still an impressive sight. Attractions include the Marble Hall - adorned with frescos by Martino Altomonte (1659-1745) - the state bedroom, Hall of Grotesques and the Marble Gallery. The Lower Belvedere also incorporates the orangery and palace stables, formerly used for the prince's horses.

Upper Belvedere

In 1717, the decision was made to build the Upper Belvedere. Construction took place between 1721 and 1722 and the interior decoration was completed the following year. The garden palace primarily served the purpose of pomp and display. This is reflected in the elegant sala terrena (today the entrance hall), the grand staircase, the magnificent Marble Hall, rooms sumptuously embellished with stucco and frescos (frescos by Carlo Carlone [1686-1775], ceiling paintings by Giacomo del Pò) and the chapel with the exquisite altarpiece by Francesco Solimena (1657-1747).

Both palaces, which are masterpieces of Baroque architecture, were connected by a symmetrical garden based on French and Italian examples. With its many garden sculptures, fountains, zoo, orangery (today the Museum of Medieval Art), greenhouses for exotic plants and a large volière the park was one of the most lavish and elaborate European gardens of the 18th century.

The Upper Belvedere was where our tour was. There was some constuction on the gardens between the Upper and Lower sections, but it was amazing. Also, because of the strong winds we had here a couple of days ago, it looked like one of the sculptures from the roof had fallen to the pavement below, and was blocked off with caution tape.

The Belvedere after Prince Eugene
1736-1764

In 1752 Empress Maria Theresia acquired the palace from the prince's heiress. Her father, Emperor Karl VI, had already purchased the valuable library and graphic collection just after Prince Eugene died. At this time the antique sculptures from Prince Eugene's famed art collection were sold to Dresden, the painting collection to Turin. It was under Maria Theresia that the palace was first named "Belvedere". For a long time the buildings were hardly used. Then, in 1764, the imperial "Arcierenleibgarde", a military guard, moved into the Lower Belvedere, where they had their headquarters until the end of the Habsburg monarchy.

In 1919 the palace passed into the possession of the Republic of Austria. In 1944 and 1945, at the end of World War II, both the Upper and Lower Belvedere were badly damaged in air-raids.
1955 was a historic year for Austria. In the Upper Belvedere's Marble Hall the foreign ministers of the Allied Powers - the Soviet Union, United States of America, France and England - and the Austrian foreign minister, Leopold Figl, signed the Austrian State Treaty. This prepared for the withdrawal of the occupying powers and restored to Austria its independence and neutrality.

Next, we went to see the Hundertwasserhaus. The Hundertwasser House Vienna (German Hundertwasserhaus Wien) is an apartment house in Vienna, Austria, designed by Austrian artist Friedensreich Hundertwasser. This landmark of Vienna is located in the 3. district, Kegelgasse 34-38 / Löwengasse 41-43, at 48°12′26″N, 16°23′39″E.

The house was built between 1983 and 1986 by architects Univ.-Prof. Joseph Krawina and Peter Pelikan. It features undulating floors ("an uneven floor is a melody to the feet"), a roof covered with earth and grass, and large trees growing from inside the rooms, with limbs extending from windows. Hundertwasser took no payment for the design of the house, declaring that it was worth it, to prevent something ugly from going up in its place.

Within the house there are 52 apartments, four offices, 16 private terraces and three communal terraces, and a total of 250 trees and bushes.

I think the house was interesting to look at, but I think that if I were the builder of it, I would have wanted to rip my hair out. Every single window in there was a diffent size or style. There were different colors and textures throughout, and it is the most un-Viennese building I have seen here, which is probably why it's so famous. But you can see other examples of Hunderwasser's work throughout the city, usually outside the first district. One of the pictures I took was of a horse statue that is done in his style, but I don't think was designed by him.

After crossing the Danube into the more modern section of Vienna, we turned around and starting driving toward the Alps. One a side note, there is only one small highrise in all of historic Vienna, and that was built by an insurance company before the city was protected UNESCO as a World Heritage Site. All of the other modern buildings are across the Danube, which we saw when we turned around. The UN has a complex on that side of the river, and there are only three places in the world that the UN has offices. They are New York City, Geneva, and Vienna.

Our drive this time was a bit longer than the others had been, and I started getting a bit sleepy. Once we got to the mountain though, it wasn't a good idea to be sleeping because of the switchbacks -- I probably would have fallen out of my seat. From the Kahlenberg, which is in the Viennese Forest, we could see all of Vienna with the Alps in the distance. I didn't realize how big it actually was, since I spend most of my time in the first district or in the apartment. But the view was incredible. We took a lot of pictures up there, and I made sure I had my camera strap around my arm, just in case. There was also a small church up there. It was visited by Pope John Paul II on one of his visits to Vienna.

To get to and from the mountain, we had to pass through Ginzing, which is in the 19th district. This part of the city is very ritzy and touristy. Consequently, the rent is high and poor people like students can't afford to spend too much time there. But it was incredibly quaint and very picturesque. Beethoven had several apartments in this area of Vienna back in his day. I believe that he composed the 5th symphony here.

On the way back to the Opera, our tour guide mentioned that there was a ball next Thursday at the Rathaus (Town Hall) which is held for students in the technical university. Since she is an alum and knows people in the University, she sent around a sign-up sheet to see how many people would be interested in getting discounted tickets. Usually, they're around 45 Euro, but she thinks she may be able to get them for 25. So of course, I signed up. :-) There should be some younger people at this ball, since she said there were several tables for Fullbright students. I suppose we'll find out this Thursday!

Und das ist alles! Liebe,
Amanda

Class Trips and Dinner Out

So yesterday started off with food shopping before class. I can't say that any of it was traumatic or anything, so I guess I'm adjusting. I got tons of bread and cheese so I can eat good for the next few days. Then we (Matt and I) went to center-city for class.

I only had about a third of class in the Palais Corbelli (yeah, just in case you missed that, I have school in a palace) and then we went to a cafe to practice our conversation for the rest of the time. This cafe was a lot bigger and newer than Hawelka, and there was a LOT less smoke. Everyone got a drink and a dessert, and the teacher paid for it (awesomeness!). I got a melange and apple strudel, which was kind of like very thick apple sauce in a pastry. It was good, but I think something chocolate would have been better. Even though there wasn't a lot of smoke there, I still came out smelling like I smoke a pack a day. It's so gross. Can somebody send me fabreeze?

After our field trip, I ran back to IES and found out that Anne, one of the girls in Reception, is going to be in an opera next Friday, so I got the info and promised to go. Then I tried skyping Matt. It didn't go too well, but I tried. So I think on Monday I'll try closer to the router.

Once I was home, all the flatties sat around discussing dinner plans. We wanted to go out somewhere, so we looked in our handy dandy red booklets that our Reception girls gave us. They have like everything we'll ever need to know while we're in Vienna. We picked out a Gasthaus in centercity. It took a while to actually find it when we got there, but eventually we managed to get to the Gasthaus. It's on a little side street and you have to walk down stairs to get inside because it's kind of in the basement. They even had a non-smoking section -- it wasn't particularly effective, but they tried, so they got brownie points. Our waitress wasn't especially nice, but since waiters and waitresses get paid a better salary here and pool their tips, they really don't have any real incentive to be nice. But the food was really good. I got Wiener Schnitzel and a glass of Welschriesling. The schnitzel was good, but I didn't care for the wine. Two other girls got wine spritzers, so I think I'm going to try one of them next time. We were probably in the Gasthaus for three hours. We had only gotten there around 7:30, and then Laura met us there around 8:30. Then we just kind of sat around talking for a really long time, but it was soooo much fun. We talked about all sorts of things, and there was a lot of laughing. After we had paid the bill, we decided to go for gelato.

The gelato place is near der Stephansdom (St Stephen's Cathedral) so it wasn't too too far from the Gasthaus. A cone is only 1,70 Euro and you can get two flavors. I got coffee and tiramisu. I liked the coffee better, but the tiramisu tasted like it had actual kahlua in it. And the guy serving me told me that I was very beautiful (and he said it in English). We stood around and ate our gelato and bs'ed for a bit outside the gelato shop. Two guys came up to us and asked us if we knew where the Burmuda Triangle was. The Bermuda Triangle in Vienna is an area in the first district where there are a lot of touristy bars. But we couldn't help them, because we don't know where it is. I personally thought it was really cool that we actually looked like we would have known.

The others decided to go to a bar afterward, and I wanted to go home, so we went our separate ways. We met up again before I got on the bus to head home because they left the bar as soon as they got there. Apparently, it was very full and smoky and not worth it. So we all headed home and called it an early night. Early being sometime after one. But whatever. So that was my first Friday in Vienna.

Today we had a lecture and bus tour of Vienna that started at 11. I was kind of sleepy, and didn't get all the info from the lecture that I would have liked. But the tour was nice. We saw the Ringstrasse and Belvedere and Kahlenberg. I'll put more up on here on each of them either later tonight or tomorrow. But suffice it to say that it was really pretty and I took some really nice pictures.

We got home and everyone did their own dinner thing. I cooked up the chicken I bought yesterday so I would have it for sandwiches for a few days. Because we have really crappy pots, all the stuff that was on the chicken was sticking and it burned and the fire alarm went off. So I had to get up on a chair and pull the batteries out of the verdammte thing. The chicken came out good though; I tried a small piece before I put it away. So yeah. That pretty much brings me up to now.

By the way, did you know that they don't have vanilla extract in Austria? It's horrible. I want to make french toast tomorrow (have to remember to take the smoke alarm out again) but you need vanilla for the dip before you fry the bread. They only have this vanilla-infused sugar stuff, so I hope that works tomorrow. Otherwise, we may end up with something not quite french toast-like. *shrug* Guess we'll find out.

So I guess I should go be social, or at least go eat some ice cream.

Love,
Amanda

Thursday, January 18, 2007

Besuchen das Cafe Hawelka

Today was a bit more low-key. I got up and did laundry and homework, and got so involved that I forgot to put on makeup. Oh, well. Class was class and that is that.

Afterwards, Violetta, Laura, and Anna (the blonde one) and I went to the Cafe Hawelka. It is a historic little cafe in centercity that we had been learning about in class. I'll put all the historical stuff below so if you're interested, you can read about it. The Cafe is a little hole-in-the-wall place and when you walk in, you see the haze of smoke. That's one thing I don't like about Europe. I can't stand the smoking in public places, mostly because I'd like to live a long life. Anyway, we picked a table in the back (and by back, I mean 15 feet in the door -- this place is tiny) because it was a bit further away from the smoke in the front. Our waiter came up and we each ordered (in German, I might add). I got a melange, which is the Austrian form of cappiccino. It was a tiny cup and came on a silver tray with a glass of water and a little bowl with two sugar cubes and a tiny spoon. Are you seeing a trend yet? Then, since we were a bit hungry, I ordered a ham sandwich and Violetta ordered a cheese sandwich. Both were open-face and were cut into what I can only describe as sticks. The ham had pickles and grated cheese on top of buttered bread. Just thinking of it makes my mouth water. And it was really, really good. They don't have a menu, but I have to go back and try one of their desserts, which is apparently famous. The melange was really good, and the waiter was very nice to us. The experience set me back about 8 Euro with the tip, but I think it was worth it as a treat.

Afterwards, we all went our separate ways. Since the weather is a bit windy and stormy here, I spent the night inside planning grocery lists and blogging and talking to people online. We had a bottle of champagne at dinner (the one at the cocktail party last fall was better) and then I retreated to my room while the flatties socialized. And so you all don't think that I'm slacking, I actually did some German homework tonight. I just have to finish it up tomorrow morning.

I also cheated and skyped Matt for a little bit just to cheer up. It made me happy. So did talking to everybody from home.

So now for your history lesson:

The Café Hawelka in the 1st District of Vienna represents one of the last great Central European tradition of writers and artists coffeehouses as exemplified in Vienna by the Café Central before the First World War and the Café Herrenhof before the Second. It is still run by Leopold Hawelka and his wife Josefine just as they did when they opened for business over sixty years ago.

Leopold Hawelka began his long career as Cafétier with the Café Alt Wien in the Bäckerstrasse in 1936 but in May 1939 he and his wife decided to take over the defunct Café Ludwig in the Dorotheergasse. These premises had originally opened in 1906 as the "Je t aime" Bar, the first bar in the modern sense in Vienna, with a live band and a chambre separée (now the store room). The interior decoration, by a pupil of the renowned Jugendstil architect Adolf Loos, was intact when the Hawelkas took over and has remained untouched ever since. (The panelled ceiling to the rear of the coffeehouse was only rediscovered and opened up by Herr Hawelka in the 1960s.)

The outbreak of war in September 1939 forced the new Café Hawelka to close. When the Hawelkas returned to Vienna in 1945 they found that, miraculously, in spite of the extensive damage suffered by the most of the surrounding buildings, their coffeehouse had survived the war without a single broken pane of glass. The house was also one of the first to have been reconnected to the mains. Post-war has been vividly depicted in Carol Reeds famous film "The Third Man" (indeed the Casanova bar, featured in the film, is next door to the Hawelka) but in spite of the shortages, wrecked infrastructure and the perils of the black market, the Hawelkas were able to acquire the necessary supplies and reopen the coffeehouse in the autumn of 1945. Coffee was prepared on a wood-burning stove and when the winter came Herr Hawelka himself had to take a pushcart to the Vienna Woods to gather firewood while Frau Hawelka looked after the guests. The coffeehouse soon became a convenient central meeting place for the inhabitants of an occupied and divided city and for those returning from the War or from emigration, providing an ideal environment to escape from the hardships of the times. The warm and peaceful atmosphere of the coffeehouse proved particularly attractive to writers and intellectuals for many of whom it soon became a second home.

By the time the Allies left Vienna in 1955, the Café Hawelka was frequented by such writers as Friedrich Torberg, Heimito von Doderer, Hilde Spiel and Hans Weigl. With the closure of the Café Herrenhof in 1961, most of the remaining members of its influential writers circle moved to the Hawelka and the little coffeehouse reigned supreme as the literary café.

The late Fifties and early Sixties was a time not only of great literary and artistic activity in Austria, but also of great economic growth. The new Italian-style espresso bars that were opening up all over Vienna at that time seemed to suit the faster pace of life far better then the traditional coffeehouse and indeed many great coffeehouses were closing down to make way for banks or car showrooms. Herr Hawelkas one concession to modernity was to install an espresso machine (which irritated some guests with its noise), but the coffeehouse survived as a timeless haven through the loyalty of its regulars.

Artists too had been discovering the Hawelka and by the mid-Sixties even some of the younger, wilder generation such as Friedensreich Hundertwasser, Ernst Fuchs, Arik Brauer, Rudolf Hausner, Hubert Aratym and Wolfgang Hutter could be found whiling away the time into the early hours. The atmosphere of the quiet, smoky, male-dominated reading-room became charged with the youthful vigour of the decade (often to the consternation of the old literati!).One wall became covered with posters advertising the latest exhibitions, concerts and lectures (an innovation of Herr Hawelkas now established in most cafés in Austria), on the other walls grew Herr Hawelkas collection of pictures by his more talented costumers (always purchased at the market price!).

During the Sixties and Seventies the Café Hawelka represented all that was fresh and energetic in the Viennese artistic scene. As well as most of the members Fantastic Realists the regulars included the poets, H.C. Artmann, Friedrich Achleitner and Gerhard Rühm, the actor Oskar Werner and the cabaretist Helmut Qualtinger, the conductor Nikolaus Harnoncourt, the singer Georg Danzer, André Heller and the photographer Franz Hubmann , who has immortalised the coffeehouse over the decades through his pictures. Famous names from abroad never failed to visit the café Hawelka when in Vienna: Elias Canetti, Henry Miller, Arthur Miller and Andy Warhol to name a few. Politicians and journalists would flock to the coffeehouse to discover the latest trends. The crowds came to see and be seen and the Café Hawelka became an Institution with Herr and Frau Hawelka becoming as famous as their guests.

The renown of the Café Hawelka spread into the guide books and as the enfants terribles of the Sixties joined the Establishment and took up their professorial seats, so their places in the coffeehouses were taken by tourists and those hoping to bask in the limelight of the remaining celebrities.

While the Glory Years may have passed, it is the outside world that has changed and not the Café Hawelka. It still provides a refuge for many artists, writers and musicians.
Three generations of Hawelkas now work in the coffeehouse, but Herr Hawelka still presides over his domain by day, greeting each guest personally. Late each evening, as every evening for over half a century, the smell of Frau Hawelkas legendary Buchteln wafts through the room.


Liebe,
Amanda

Die Oper! (for real this time)

I'm going to describe the Opera similar to how I had the KHM set up. Since I haven't had a tour of the Opera yet, I don't have any little stories to add, but once I do, I'll post pictures and write about what I saw. Anyway, I'm going to start with some info on the Opera and then I'm going to go into what I did and saw while I was there.

Exterior View

Looking at the building from the Opernring, in other words from the front, the historical part from the original 1869 building is visible. The façade remains in Renaissance arched style and the loggia on the Ringstrasse side underline the public character of the building.

Ernst Julius Hähnel

The two representations of riders over the main façade of the loggia were erected in 1876. They were created by Ernst Julius Hähnel and represent two flying horses, illustrating Harmony and the muse of poetry (Erato).

Also by Hähnel are the five bronze statues (from left to right: Heroism, the Songstress, Fantasy, Thalia and Love) which stand on pedestals inside the arched loggia arcade.

Moritz von Schwind

In the loggia one can see the painted Magic Flute cycle by Moritz von Schwind. In order to protect the painter’s precious work from the harmful effects of the weather, a protective glass covering is installed and remains from November until April.

Fountains

Right and left of the house two old fountains by Josef Gasser can be seen. They represent opposing worlds. Left: Music, Dance, Joy, and Lightheartedness, Right: Loreley, Grief, Love, and Revenge.

The Building

The back part of the two part building is clearly wider and houses the stage and the accompanying facilities while the narrower front part houses the auditorium and the publicly accessible rooms. Worth noting are the differing roof shapes: the vaulted roof all around over the higher central parts of the building covering the auditorium and the stage, the Walm roof on the lateral wings, the Saddle roof on the two-storey links between the lateral wings and the French roof on the corner turrets.

The vertical wing sections were originally used as carriage ramps. On the transverse front sides the crest of the Austrian-Hungarian empire can be seen.

Interior of the former opera house

Entering through one of the main doors into the box office foyer, which has remained in its original form, gives an immediate impression of the interior of the former opera house which was mostly destroyed on the 12th of March 1945 shortly before the end of hostilities in the Second World War. Remaining in its original form is the entire façade and main foyer, the central stairway (known as the ‘celebratory stairway’), the Schwindfoyer and loggia as well as the Tea Salon on the first floor.

The main stairwell

On the first half-landing of the celebratory stairway, to the side of the main entrance to the Parterre boxes, two medallions designed by the sculptor Josef Cesar are displayed featuring portraits of the architects August Sicard von Sicardsburg and Eduard van der Nüll. Overhead can be seen two high relief pictures by Johann Preleuthner, symbolizing the ‘Ballet’ and the ‘Opera’. A special embellishment of the stairwell is the ceiling painting ‘Fortune spreading her gifts’ after a design by Franz Dobiaschofsky. Also by him are the three canvas wall paintings representing ballet, and comic and tragic opera. The seven allegorical statues designed by Joseph Gasser which line the celebratory stairway represent the seven free arts (architecture, sculpture, poetry, dance, music, theatre and painting). They were retrieved unharmed during the last days of the war.

Tea Salon and Middle Box

The showpiece of the historical section is the Tea Salon (formerly the Emperor Salon), located between the celebratory stairwell and the Middle Box. The former Court box, as well as the Tea Salon were formerly reserved for use by the Court. The entrance to the Court box incidentally marks the border of the 1945 fire. The Tea Salon is still today not always accessible as it is used for production meetings, conferences, awards ceremonies, receptions and so on. The ceiling painting by Karl Madjera (Music on the eagle’s wings) with representations of lyric and tragic music on both sides, has retained its vibrant colours. The ceiling and walls are adorned with 22 carat gold leaf. Also of interest are the sculptures by August La Ligne, wall embroideries from the workshop Giani and tapestries featuring the initials of Franz Joseph I.

The Auditorium

Today the Middle Box is accessible to the pubic. It gives an impressive view of the horseshoe shaped auditorium, which had to be completely rebuilt after the Second World War. The re-building of the auditorium, new stairways to the former 3rd gallery, all the public cloak rooms and the interval rooms in the upper levels were entrusted to Erich Boltenstern, Professor at the technical college and at the Academy for the plastic arts in Vienna, as the result of a competition. The architects Otto Prossinger, Ceno Kosak and Felix Cevela designed the interval rooms on the 1st level. The basic Italian theatre design, with three box levels and two open levels (balcony and gallery) was maintained, according to the plans of Sicardsburg and van der Nüll. Boltenstern limited his changes to slightly lifting the 3rd gallery (today the Balcony). The columns on the 3rd and 4th gallery levels were eliminated as there was no longer any structural need for them. In their place a free floating ceiling construction was chosen which dramatically improved sightlines.

From the original capacity of the auditorium, which was 2,881 places, only 2,282 places remain (of which 1,709 are sitting, 567 are standing, 4 are wheelchair, and 4 are accompanying places). The reduction in the number was necessary due to stricter building, fire and safety regulations. The front of the boxes, constructed from reinforced concrete, were covered with wood for acoustical reasons (the acoustics of this Vienna opera house is of unequalled brilliance). The number of access doors to the hall was increased and handicapped access improved. Some of the upper level seats with obstructed view were equipped with lights for reading. The traditional red-gold-ivory colours of the auditorium were maintained, but the sumptuous interior was replaced by a timeless classic design. Paintings, reliefs, and columns no longer decorate the auditorium and for safety reasons the large centre chandelier was replaced by a lighting wreath made from crystal. This lighting fixture weighs 3,000 kilograms and contains 1,100 light bulbs. This fixture has a diameter of 7 meters, is 5 meters high and has access for a lighting technician to carry our maintenance work on the lighting wreath.

Prof. Rudolf Eisenmenger designed the so called iron curtain which separates the auditorium from the stage. It displays a scene from Gluck’s opera ‘Orpheus and Eurydice’. In early 1998 the firm Museum in Progress was entrusted with the creation of a series of 5 large, temporary paintings for the Staatsoper —one for each season. The realization and attaching of the pictures takes place using a specially developed process so that both the Eisenmenger picture, as well as the new work, are guaranteed to be conserved in optimal condition. With the creation of an exhibition room in the Wiener Staatsoper this historical building assumes its responsibility towards contemporary artistic developments.

Every evening the orchestra pit accommodates the musicians of possibly the world’s best known ensemble. The Weiner Philharmoniker orchestra members are recruited from the members of the Staatsoper orchestra. The orchestra pit is 123 m2 can hold around 110 musicians. It is fitted with an adjustable floor so that the height can be varied. The purpose of this is to achieve acoustical effects and to make possible the use of the front stage when fewer musicians are needed in the orchestra pit.

The entire building is fitted with a seemingly old-fashioned, but effective climate control. Fresh air from the nearby city park is sucked in through an underground tunnel. In winter the air is warmed and in the warmer seasons the air is blown over ice blocks (which are incidentally made in the House) thereby cooling the air. The opera like the Burgtheater, is district heated.

Three iron curtains serve as security in case of fire: the main curtain which divides the stage from the auditorium and two further curtains which can be closed on the side and back stages. Above all the construction of the new part of the house was done with the utmost safety in mind: the former wood ceiling was replaced by one made from reinforced concrete. Instead of the former slate roof with wooden shingles in between there is now a fire, water and windproof copper skin—thereby finally fulfilling a wish of the architect van der Nüll—on a thin reinforced concrete shell. On the roof a public terrace was created, which serves not only an additional escape route but also as an ideal interval space for the warmer times of the year. Since September 1999 this large terrace accommodates the Mobilkom tent for children—a theatre on top of a theatre.

The Gustav Mahler Hall

The Staatsoper interval halls frame the main stairwell with an 120 meter long necklace of adjoining rooms. Right of the stairwell is the room known as the Gustav Mahler Hall, which was called the Gobelin Hall until May 1997 because the walls were decorated with Gobelin tapestries designed by Rudolf Eisenmenger showing motifs from Mozart’s MAGIC FLUTE. Twenty employees from the now defunct Vienna Gobelin tapestry manufacturer worked for six years to make the tapestries with their 13,000 colour nuances. Until 1944 the Director’s offices were lodged in this room and all of the Directors from Dingelstedt to Karl Böhm had their office here. 100 years after Gustav Mahler’s conducting debut at the court opera (11 May 1897), which was followed shortly after by his time as General Director, this room was re-named after him. A portrait of the artist by R.B. Kitaj, which hung in Mahler’s office, now marks the place where his office was once found.

Foyer and Loggia

Through an opening in the wall the Gustav Mahler Hall is linked to the original remaining foyer (in earlier times called the ‘Promenade Hall’). Sixteen oil paintings after sketches by Moritz von Schwind explain why this magnificent hall has the nick-name ‘Schwindfoyer’. The paintings portray once well known, but today hardly ever performed, works from the operatic repertoire as well as one concert piece: "The Free-Shooter" (Carl Maria von Weber), "The Barber of Seville" (Gioachino Rossini), "The Water Carrier" (Luigi Cherubini), "The White Lady" (François-Adrien Boieldieu), "Hans Heiling" (Heinrich Marschner), "The Vestal Virgin" (Gaspare Spontini), "Jessonda" (Louis Spohr), "Domestic Warfare" (Franz Schubert), "Armide" (Christoph Willibald Gluck), "The Magic Flute" (Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart), "Fidelio" (Ludwig van Beethoven), "Doctor and Apothecary" (Karl Ditters von Dittersdorf) Against the wishes of the committee, Schwind asserted that Bellini’s "Norma" should not be included. "Les Huguenots" (Giacomo Meyerbeer) and, as outsider, Joseph Haydn’s oratorio "The Creation".

Under each painting is the bust of the corresponding composer. The ceiling is decorated with two paintings "Battle of the Wreath" and "Victory" by Friedrich Sturm (he also created the twelve flower decorations on the walls). Medallions of the Empress Maria Theresia and the Emperor Leopold I, who contributed several notable works he composed himself to the young art form, can be seen over each of the marble fireplaces. In addition the busts of some significant Staatsoper General Directors are found: Gustav Mahler (by Auguste Rodin), Richard Strauss (by Hugo Lederer), Clemens Krauss (by K. Piettier), Herbert von Karajan (by Milos Borc) and Karl Böhm (by N. Tregor). The rooms linking the Hall, the Marble Hall as well as the Gustav Mahler Hall contain busts respectively of Gaetano Donizetti (who for a short time held the post of Wiener Kammerkapellmeister) and Richard Wagner. In the Wagner Salon a bust of the longtime house conductor Josef Krips can be seen. Beside the Schwindfoyer is the Marble Hall, which also serves as an interval room. It was created by the architects Prossinger and Cevela from the destroyed Emperor’s Hall and the former smoking salon. The marble inlay work by Heinz Leinfellner portrays scenes from theatre life backstage.

The Stage House

After the war the stage house was reconstructed on the original foundation walls. Workshops (such as the paint shop, set workshop, costume shop, hat and shoe shop as well as the costume store) which were formerly located in the House were moved next door to the Austrian National Theatres building (Hanuschgasse 1). The opera building is reached through an underground tunnel, through which the necessary costumes are transported daily without coming into contact with traffic. In the stage house the necessary space for rehearsal rooms was created, of which there had been a severe shortage. In addition, a canteen was needed and all the various management offices and administration offices. The majority of the rooms, including the artists’ dressing rooms, are equipped with loud speakers and video monitors which allow the action on stage to be followed.

Refurbishment

In the summer months of 1991 to 1993, as well as during a longer period from July to December 1994, the Wiener Staatsoper was substantially refurbished—on schedule and in record time. The principal work was the refurbishment of the stage machinery.

Brought up to the most modern technical standards, the hydraulic lifts and the electronic fly machinery allow and even more precise and flawless performance. The electrical supply, which came formerly from the Hofburg, was entrusted to two transformer stations. While all of these features, as well as the new heating, fire and safety systems, are invisible to the public there were also renovations to the auditorium such as refurbishment of the paint and the replacement of the box seats.

"Eberhard Waechter" Rehearsal Room

In addition, during this time an until then unused room under the roof was transformed into a new rehearsal room. Acoustically fitted out so that it can be used not only for stage rehearsals but also for orchestra rehearsals, this nearly 400 m2 hall (with side rooms around 700 m2) was officially opened by Director Ioan Holender on 1 September 1995. Its name, "Eberhard Waechter Rehearsal Room" is in memory of the deceased singer and Staatsoper General Director.

Other Rehearsal Rooms

Beside this rehearsal room the Staatsoper has three rooms for ensemble rehearsals with chorus and orchestra, one rehearsal room 26 X 14 m in size, and an organ hall on the 6th floor. This room not only has a rehearsal function: its name comes from the large organ with 2,500 pipes (the Staatsoper is the only opera house in the world with such a large pipe organ) whose sound can be transmitted to the auditorium when needed. Other acoustical effects can also be transmitted ‘live’ from the organ room, for example the sound of hammering on the anvils in Wagner’s Rheingold. Furthermore the Staatsoper has at its disposal ten sound-proof soloist practice rooms as well as one large and one small ballet rehearsal room.

General information about the history of the Wiener Staatsoper

Approximately 50 operas and 20 ballets are offered in the repertoire every season, which runs from 1 September to 30 June. It is not, however, the number which is important (although it is not equaled by any other opera house in the world) rather the variety offered by this House and all at the highest levels of artistry. An artistic corner stone of the house is the permanently engaged ensemble of singers, always complemented by international guest singers. A great number of world stars have come from among the members of the Wiener Staatsoper ensemble. General Director Ioan Holender has discovered for the Wiener Staatsoper, and thereby for the international music world, a large number of young singers such as Natalie Dessay Barbara Frittoli, Angela Gheorghiu, Vesselina Kasarova, Angelika Kirchschlager, Andrea Rost, Michael Schade, Bo Skovhus, Bryn Terfel and Ramón Vargas.

A further fact: the members of the Wiener Philhamoniker orchestra are recruited from the Wiener Staatsoper orchestra. It can be said in Vienna and elsewhere without false modesty that this world renowned orchestra is the best opera orchestra in the world. Back stage over 250 technical employees work from early in the morning though the night in order to prepare the daily change of performance.


The Wiener Staatsoper is the epitome of Austrian musical tradition and as a result the symbol for this relatively small, although disproportionately culturally present nation. This reputation was not least built through guest appearances overseas which have all the allure of a state visit. The first tour abroad (to France in 1947) caused a Parisian critic to write: ‘How rich is this poor Austria’. During the tour to Japan in 1994, overall the fourth guest appearance by the Staatsoper, performances were given of LE NOZZE DI FIGARO and BORIS GODUNOW under Claudio Abbado, DER ROSENKAVALIER under Carlos Kleiber as well as DIE FLEDERMAUS under Ulf Schirmer in Tokyo.

In addition, guest appearances in Ravenna in July 1996 of COSÌ FAN TUTTE under Riccardo Muti and the most recent tour in the autumn of 2000, once again to Japan, with three productions in total (ARIADNE AUF NAXOS: with Edita Gruberova as Zerbinetta and Agnes Baltsa as Komoponist under Giuseppe Sinopoli; DIE LUSTIGE WITWE: with Thomas Hampson as Danilo and Angelika Kirchschlager as Valencienne under Jun Märkl; LINDA DI CHAMOUNIX: with Edita Gruberova as Linda and Thomas Hampson as Antonio under Bruno Campanella) confirmed the international ambassadorial role of the Staatsoper.

132 Years of the House on the Ring

The tradition of Viennese opera goes back over three and a half centuries to the time of the early Baroque. Emperor Franz Joseph I decreed in December 1857 that the old city walls and fortifications around the Viennese inner city should be torn down and the Ringstrasse, a wide boulevard with new purpose built buildings for culture and politics, should take its place. Also the two Court theatres (one drama and one music theatre) were to find a new home on the Ring. For the Court opera theatre a prominent place was chosen in the immediate area of the former Kärtnertortheater. This popular opera theatre built in 1709 was torn down due to its being too cramped.

In its place a new opera house was built designed by the Viennese architect August von Sicardsburg with interior decoration conceived by Eduard van der Nüll. But other well known artists also made contributions: one has only to think of Moritz von Schwind who painted the frescos in the foyer and the well-known Magic Flute cycle in the loggia. The two architects would not live to see the opening of ‘their’ opera house: the sensitive van der Nüll committed suicide after the Viennese characterized his house as tasteless and his friend Sicardsburg died shortly afterwards from a stroke.

132 Years of the House on the Ring

1869 - 1955

On the 25th of May 1869 the house was officially opened with a performance of Mozart’s DON JUAN in the presence of Emperor Franz Joseph, the sovereign landlord, and Empress Elisabeth. As a result of the artistic charisma of the first General Directors, Franz von Dingelstedt, Johann Herbeck, Franz Jauner and Wilhelm Jahn the building grew in popularity. The first summit for Viennese opera was reached under the direction of Gustav Mahler, who completely revitalized the obsolete performance system, strengthened the precision and spirit of the ensemble and brought in important visual artists (among them Alfred Roller) to create the new stage aesthetic.

During his ten-year long tenure (from 1897 to 1907) Gustav Mahler—still omnipresent on the eve of the 20th century in the concert houses of the world as the most important composer of symphonic work—set about building the Wagner repertoire, renewing Mozart’s operas and Beethoven’s FIDELIO, while maintaining the association with Verdi and cultivating one with Richard Strauss. Austrian composers were promoted (Hugo Wolf) and the Court opera was opened to modern European works. Beside the classics from the Italian repertoire, Mozart, Wagner and Richard Strauss (himself General Director of the House from 1919 to 1924) are the mainstays of the Wiener Staatsoper repertoire.

Modern works always had their place as well: during the 20s and 30s the Viennese were witness to the first performances of Krenek’s JONNY SPIELT AUF, Hindemith’s CARDILLAC, Korngold’s WUNDER DER HELIANE and Berg’s WOZZECK (under Director Clemens Krauss). This tradition was interrupted when the National Socialists came to power and after the devastating bombing on the 12th of March 1945, which extensively demolished the Ring, the future of the art form itself was in doubt.

The Viennese, who during the war preserved a lively cultural life, were deeply shocked to see the symbol of Austrian musical life in rubble and ashes. But the spirit of the opera was not destroyed. Already on the 1st May 1945 the ‘Staatsoper at the Volksoper’ had opened with a splendid performance of Mozart’s THE MARRIAGE OF FIGARO, and on 6th October 1945 Beethoven’s FIDELIO re-opened the quickly restored Theater an der Wien. Thus for ten years while the original house was rebuilt at great cost there were two alternative performance locations.

Already by the 24th May 1945 the State Secretary for Public Works, Julius Raab, had proclaimed that the Wiener Staatsoper would be rebuilt and he put the job in the hands of Austrian architects Erich Boltenstern and Otto Prossinger. Only the main façade, the celebratory stairway, and the Schwindfoyer remained after the bombing. With a new auditorium and the most modern technical equipment, the Staatsoper was re-opened with a performance of Beethoven’s FIDELIO under Karl Böhm on the 5th of November 1955. The opening celebrations were broadcast on Austrian television and were perceived in rest of the whole world as a sign of life of the new republic.

From 1955 to 1992

The saying that the Wiener Staatsoper will survive every General Director is ascribed to Egon Seefehlner, who himself was responsible for the well being of the House for many years. But he, and the thirty-one other General Directors of the Wiener Staatsoper since 1869, all of them great artists or artistic administrators, have defined the profile of this world-renowned institution (See 1869 to 1955).

After World War II came the first the conductor-General Directors: Karl Böhm and Herbert von Karajan—the latter insisted on being called Artistic Director and opened the ensemble to the international singers market. He introduced the practice of operas being sung in the original language and set in motion plans for co-productions with foreign companies which were realised only after his tenure had ended.

Egon Hilbert, Heinrich Reif-Gintl, Rudolf Gamsjäger followed as General Directors as well as the aforementioned Egon Seefehlner who was for a second time named as General Director after the resignation of his successor Lorne Mazel. Klaus Helmut Drese (Staatsooper General Director from 1986 to 1991) had at his side an internationally recognized Music Director in the person of Claudio Abaddo. In the early 90s the former star baritone Eberhard Waechter, at that time General Director of the Volksoper, was appointed. He was only to be General Director for seven months.

The era of Ioan Holender (since 1992)

Following Waechter’s tragic death in March 1992, the General Secretary named Ioan Holender, former singer and owner of a singers agency, to take up the post until the end of 2010, and carry on the tradition of perhaps the best known opera institution in the world.

His programming choices cover a broad repertoire with the pillars being works by Mozart, Wagner, Verdi and Strauss along side many first performances for the House: Bellini’s I PURITANI (1993/94), Massenet’s HÉRODIADE (1994/95), Verdi’s JÉRUSALEM and Britten’s PETER GRIMES (1995/96), Verdi’s STIFFELIO and Enescu’s OEDIPE (1996/97), Rossini’s GUILLAUME TELL and Lehár’s operetta THE MERRY WIDOW (1998/99) as well as Schönberg’s DIE JAKOBSLEITER, Hiller’s PETER PAN, Donizetti’s ROBERTO DEVEREUX, Britten’s BILLY BUDD and Verdi’s NABUCCO (2000/01). A particular success of the recent past was the re-discovery of Fromental Halévy’s Grand Opéra LA JUIVE (1999). Two world premieres were included in the 1995 season; Adriana Hölszky’s DIE WÄNDE (A co-production with the Wiener Festwochen at the Theater an der Wien) and Alfred Schnittke’s GESUALDO. In addition, on 15 June 2002 a further work commissioned by the Wiener Staatsoper, DER RIESE VOM STEINFELD (Music: Friedrich Cerha, Libretto: Peter Turrini), had its world premiere to great acclaim.

In the last few years, always on the 18th of May, the anniversary of the death of Gustav Mahler, a concert is given by the Wiener Philharmoniker at the Staatsoper. This concert was conducted in 1995 by Seiji Ozawa (who has been Music Director since the 2002/2003 season) Carlo Maria Giulini (1996), Riccardo Muti (1997), Lorin Maazel (1998), Zubin Mehta (1999), Giuseppe Sinopoli (2000) und Riccardo Muti (2001).

In the Theater an der Wien a triumphal new production of Mozart’s COSÍ FAN TUTTE was given. This Mozart-cycle under Muti was continued with DON GIOVANNI in 1999 and LE NOZZE DI FIGARO in 2001.

On the 27th of April 1995, fifty years after the proclamation of an independent Austria, a concert was given entitled ‘A House commemorates after 50 Years’ in which artists and workers of the Wiener Staatsoper who fell victim to the National Socialist dictatorship between 1938 and 1945, and during this time could not work in the house, were remembered.
The ‘Verdi Year’ in 2001 was extensively celebrated at the Wiener Staatsoper. The beginning was marked by Verdi Weeks commemorating the 100th anniversary of the composer’s death. From the 8th to the 31st of January not less than a dozen of the master’s works were performed in succession. No other opera house in the world could offer such a large number of Giuseppe Verdi’s operas in such a short period.

And now onto my opera experience....finally:

Me and the flatties were on line for a couple of hours before we got our tickets. Since they were for standing room only and on the opera level, they only cost 3,50 Euro. We might have been able to get seats, but they would have been 9 Euro and people with season tickets would have had to come turn in their tickets for us to use them. Some other people from IES got those seats and they were in the fifth row. Once we found our standing areas, we had to check our coats. But first we tied something to the lower bar in front of us to save our spots. I never wear a scarf (I need to start, it's what people do in Vienna) but the flatties on either side of me had theirs, so I figured nobody would take that spot. Anyway, we checked our coats and bags and walked around a bit before going to our places.

The opera started at 7:00 and lasted until 10:15 with a 15 minute intermission. It was called Cosi fan tutte. The synopsis that follows is from wikipedia, so take it as you will. Either way, it was really funny and cute and I thought it was really well done. My favorite character was the maid because her voice wasn't quite as high as the other female leads and she was funny.

Mozart and Da Ponte took as a theme "fiancée swapping" which dates back to the 13th century, with notable earlier versions being those of Boccaccio's Decameron and Shakespeare's play Cymbeline. Elements from Shakespeare's The Taming of the Shrew are also present. It also incorporates elements of the myth of Procris as found in Ovid.

Place, Naples.
Time, the 18th century.

Act I. In a coffee shop, Ferrando and Guglielmo (two officers) claim that their brides (Dorabella and Fiordiligi, respectively) will be eternally faithful. Don Alfonso joins the discussion and lays a wager with the two officers, claiming he can prove in a day's time that these two women (like all women) are fickle. The wager is accepted: the two officers will pretend to have been called off to war; soon thereafter they shall return in disguise and attempt to seduce each other's lover. The scene shifts to the two women (they are sisters) who are praising their men. Alfonso arrives to announce the bad news: the officers have been called off to war. Ferrando and Guglielmo arrive, brokenhearted, and bid farewell (quintet: Sento, o Dio, che questo piedo è restio—"I feel, oh God, that my foot is reluctant"). As the boat with the men sails off to sea, Alfonso and the sisters wish them safe travel (trio: Soave sia il vento—"May the wind be gentle"), then Alfonso, left alone, rails against the fickleness of women (arioso: Oh, poverini, per femmina giocar cento zecchini?—"Oh, poor little ones, to wager 100 sequins on a woman").

The scene shifts to a room in the sisters' home. Despina, their maid, arrives and asks what is wrong. Dorabella bemoans the torment of having been left alone (aria: Smanie implacabili—"Torments implacable"). Despina mocks the sisters, advising them to consider new lovers over old lovers (aria: In uomini, in soldati, sperare fedeltá?—"In men, in soldiers, you hope for faithfulness?"). After they depart, Alfonso arrives upon the scene. He fears Despina will recognize the men through their disguises, so he bribes her into helping him win the bet. The two men then arrive, dressed as mustachioed Albanians. The sisters enter and are alarmed by the presence of strange men in their home. The Albanians attempt to win over the sisters, Guglielmo going so far as to point out all of his manly attributes (aria: Non siate ritrosi—"Don't be shy"), but to no avail (aria: Come Scoglio—"Like a rock"). Ferrando, left alone and sensing victory, praises his love (aria: Un aura amorosa—"A loving breath").

The scene shifts to a garden, with the sisters still pining. But Despina has asked Don Alfonso to let her take over the seduction plan—and suddenly, the Albanians burst in the scene and threaten to poison themselves if they are not allowed the chance to woo the sisters. As Alfonso tries to calm them, they drink the poison and pass out. Soon thereafter, a doctor arrives on the scene (Despina in disguise), who, through use of a large magnet (see animal magnetism), is able to revive the Albanians. The revived men, hallucinating, demand a kiss of the goddesses who stand before them. The sisters refuse, even as Alfonso and the doctor (Despina) urge them to acquiesce.

Act II. The act opens in the sisters' bedroom, with Despina urging them to succumb to the Albanians' overtures (aria: Una donna a quindici anni—"A fifteen year old woman"). After she leaves, Dorabella confesses to Fiordiligi that she is tempted. Fiordiligi remains steadfast, however (duet: Prenderó quel brunettino"—"You take the darker one").

The scene shifts to the garden, where Dorabella and the disguised Guglielmo pair off, as do the other two. The conversation is haltingly uncomfortable, and Ferrando departs with Fiodiligi. Now alone, Guglielmo attempts to woo Dorabella. She does not resist strongly, and soon she has given him a medallion (with Ferrando's portrait inside) in exchange for a heart-shaped locket (duet: Il core vi dono—"I give you my heart"). Ferrando is less successful with Fiordiligi (Ferrando's aria: Ah, lo veggio—"Ah, I see it," and Fiordiligi's aria: Per pietá, ben mio, perdona—"Please, my beloved, forgive"), so he is enraged when he later finds out from Guglielmo that the medallion with his portrait has been so quickly given away to a new lover. Guglielmo at first sympathises with Ferrando (aria: Donne mie, la fate a tanti—"My ladies, you do it to so many") but then gloats, because his betrothed is faithful.

The scene changes to the sister's room, where Dorabella admits her indiscretion to Fiordiligi (É amore un ladroncello—"Is love a little thief"). Fiordiligi, upset by this development, decides to go to the army and find her betrothed. Before she can leave, though, Ferrando arrives and continues his attempted seduction. Fiordiligi finally succumbs and falls into his arms (duet: Tra gli amplessi—"In the embraces"). Guglielmo is distraught while Ferrando turns Guglielmo's earlier gloating back on him. Alfonso, winner of the wager, tells the men to forgive their fiancées. After all: Cosi fan tutte—"All women are like that."

The final scene begins as a double wedding for the sisters and their Albanian grooms. Despina, in disguise as a notary, presents the marriage contract, which all sign. Directly thereafter, military music is heard in the distance, indicating the return of the officers. Alfonso confirms the sisters' fears: Ferrando and Guglielmo are on their way to the house. The Albanians hurry off to hide (actually, to change out of their disguises). They return as the officers, professing their love. Alfonso drops the marriage contract in front of the officers, and, when they read it, they become enraged. They then depart and return moments later, half in Albanian disguise, half as officers. Despina has been revealed to be the notary, and the sisters realize they have been duped. All is ultimately forgiven, as the entire group praises the ability to accept life's unavoidable good times and bad times.

(Plot taken from The Opera Goer's Complete Guide by Leo Melitz, 1921 version.)

The opera experience was a lot of fun, but after the first half hour, my feet were KILLING me. So doing what any sane female would do, I took my shoes off. After the first act, we went out to walk around and get the water bottles out of our bags. When we tried to sit down on the floor, one of the women that worked there came up to us and said, "Steh auf, bitte. Ihr seit an der Oper." (Stand up please. You're at the Opera.) She wasn't rude about it or anything, but it sounded like she was almost pleading with us. We laughed about it and stood up, and luckily, they had a couch sort of thing in a different area that we took turns sitting on. When we went back inside, the shoes came off again. What can I say? It was a lot more comfortable than feeling like I should cut my little toes off.

Afterwards, the girls and I went home and the boys went out to a couple of bars. We got back around 10:45, and chilled out for a while. Later on, we got a bit more social, just before bed. Since I'm a dork and I didn't have class until 12:30 the next day, I skipped doing my homework to talk to people online.

Und dass ist alles, Leute! Maybe later I'll put up something about today, which was a lot more low-key.

Liebe,
Amanda



Die Oper!

Dear People,

Just so you don't get the wrong idea, I promise I do not spend all of my free time in front of a computer. It's just that I figure when I get back to the States, I want to print all of this out and make it into a little book about my trip to Vienna, and thus I feel like I have to put in all the gory details of my life here. Also, if you want a postcard or something, send me your address, or put it in the comments section. Just keep in mind that it costs 1,25 Euro for each postcard, so don't make me go broke!

But onto my Wednesday adventures...

Tuesday night the flatties decided that it would be a good idea to go to the Opera the next evening, so we all set out our clothes for the next day ahead of time. Since we were going for standing room tickets, we had to be there about two hours before the performance started. This meant that I had about an hour and a half to kill in between class and standing in line. Which is why you all got a blog post yesterday. On a side note, German keyboards are really screwy. The y and the z keys are switched, and the umlauts are actual keys on the right hand side. That's why it took so long to write yesterday's post...that and I had to actually think about what my fingers were doing when I had to use shifts and apostrophes and y's. But anyway, we got all gussied up yesterday morning so we wouldn't have to go home.

The people in the morning class had to be at IES for 9:00, but Matt and I were going on the Art History Museum (Kunsthistorisches Museum) tour at 10:30. We were a few minutes early when we got there, so we took pictures of the Maria Theresa statue in the middle of the courtyard thing. It's kind of like a mall between the Art History Museum and the Museum of Natural History. She is shown sitting with all of her generals and advisors around her. Because I'm such a dork, I thought this was really cool...I also wrote a paper on her last semester for one of my German classes, so I recognized some of the names listed by the generals. Some of the following information is borrowed from other sites because they are clearer than I would be in describing the Museum.

The building of the Kunsthistorisches Museum in Vienna is one of the most important 19th-century museum buildings in Europe. It was commissioned by the Emperor Francis Joseph I in 1858 as part of his project for enlarging the capital. The monumental building was designed not only to house the magnificent art treasures assembled by the Habsburgs over the centuries but also as a suitably impressive setting for them. The construction work took twenty years from the digging of the first turf in 1871 until the formal opening ceremony in 1891.

Over the centuries, the imperial art collections had been housed in different buildings, frequently under somewhat cramped conditions. In order to rectify this cultural embarrassment ­ other cities such as Berlin, Madrid, or London had long been embellished with spacious and important museums ­ a new, centrally located museum building was planned in Vienna. As early as 1858, the erection of new museums and galleries had been included in the plans for the enlargement of the capital. But it was only in 1864 that the decision to build two identical buildings opposite the Vienna Hofburg Palace was taken: the Imperial Art History Museum and the Imperial Natural History Museum ­ the Kunsthistorisches and the Naturhistorisches Museum respectively.

Apparently, there were four architechs who submitted designs for the area.

Ferstel designed the museum square as a secluded, quiet area. The museum was to form a world unto itself. He envisaged the large inner courtyard of the four-winged building as a place where museum visitors could refresh and prepare themselves. Even enlarging the collections would have been possible, and a Hall of Austrian History was planned in the arcades.



Competition project, bird´s-eye view, 1867

Critics objected to the high building costs of the four domes, the fact that they would cast shadows over the wings housing the collections, and the limited space in the narrow museum buildings. They also criticised the lack of reference to the Imperial Palace, though it would be possible to drive from the Palace to the Imperial Stables, as required by the rules of the competition.

From an art-historical point of view Hansen´s design is the most important. The great Classicist envisaged two museums flanking a central square, a centre of urban life - an agora. It would have become one of the most important 19th-century town squares. The connecting corridors were designed to house shops and offer protection to promenaders in bad weather.



Total view of competition project, 1867

Hansen chose the "Greek-Renaissance style" as an expression of this democratic principle and the concept of the agora. In contravention of the competition rules, Hansen designed a columned hall to connect the two museums and embellish their façades; the main emphasis was placed on a central Glyptothek, a sculpture collection.



Competition project, detail, 1867

Note how Hansen planned to erect the buildings on raised ground. Thus Hansen´s large building would have completely dominated the Imperial Hofburg Palace.

Löhr´s design of two buildings facing one another fulfilled most closely the rules of the competition, the collections´ need for space and the wishes of the curators. However, the curators were unhappy with his lighting design. This question was of particular importance because there was, as yet, no electrification. On the whole, Löhr designed modest or even plain museum buildings, economical rather than lavish. However, those times were past and opulence was in vogue.


Overall view of the second, improved project, 1868, which includes a free-standing Hall of Fame between the museums.



Drawing showing the façade´s central bay and a side bay of one of the two museum buildings, 1866-67

Like Löhr, Hasenauer envisaged two museum buildings facing each other. However, his designs for the façades are much more elaborate and ornate. He believed that a museum´s façade should reflect the wealth of treasures housed inside. The outstanding quality of Hasenauer´s first design was also appreciated by Semper, who later put him in charge of the opulent interior decoration.



Overall view of the competition project for the Imperial Museums, 1867




First competition project for the Imperial Museums, façade, 1866

The jury, however, came to the conclusion that none of the four submitted designs was suitable. Thus they invited the famous architect and art theoretician, Gottfried von Semper, to Vienna to evaluate the designs. However, Semper not only criticised the designs but also the competition¹s frame of reference, and called for an overall concept. The emperor then commissioned him to design the two museum buildings and to choose an assistant familiar with local conditions. Semper chose Hasenauer.

The Imperial Forum

Semper´s design focused on an Imperial Forum in which the two museum buildings would play a prominent role but still be part of an overall plan.


On July 30, 1870, the Emperor approved Semper´s plans for the Imperial Forum. The imperial building permit was issued the following year, and the digging of the first turf took place in the autumn of 1871.


The Sculptural Programme

All four of the museum´s façades are decorated with numerous sculptures. They depict allegories and personifications as well as historical personages and artists. Gottfried Semper devised the iconological programme. For Semper the decorations of the façade illustrate the conditions governing a work of art: material aspects dominate the ground floor, artistic ones the main floor, and both are surmounted on the attic floor and along the balustrade by the individual as the crowning glory, the statues depicting famous artists.









The whole programme is devised in chronological order. The façade on » Babenberger Street is dedicated to classical antiquity, that facing the Museumsquartier to the Middle Ages, that facing » Maria Theresa Square to the Renaissance, and finally, that facing the » Burgring to art of the modern era.


Central Bay - Babenberger Street

Greek and Roman Art









The art and civilisation of classical antiquity mark the beginning of the iconographic-iconological decorational cycle. The seated figures between the columns represent
» Art Industry and » Architecture.
- a laterally reversed continuation of the programme of the central bay facing Maria Theresa Square. The statues on the upper floor represent the social and political influences of classical antiquity, of Ancient Greece: » Pericles and » Peisistratos.


One of the main principles governing the design of the building is the conscious return to the universal Gesamtkunstwerk (total work of art) of the Renaissance. For the 19th century, however, the term "Renaissance" was less restricted than it is today: it also included earlier and later styles and attitudes. For Gottfried Semper, the architect of the museum buildings and the devisor of the iconographic-iconological programme of the façades, the first collections of art were "started by the great Renaissance architects". Thus the sculptural programme of the main façade is dedicated to the Renaissance.


The sculptural programme along this façade forms both the end and the beginning of the iconological-iconographic universe of art. The periods of art end with contemporary art, i.e. the art of the late 19th century - with the museum building on the Ringstrasse itself bearing witness to the huge and successful urban redevelopment that marked Vienna´s birth as a modern metropolis on a par with other world cities.



Note in the » spandrels the personifications of cities housing world-famous art collections then open to the public: Paris, London, Madrid, Milan, now Vienna, Berlin, Munich, Dresden, Brussels, The Hague, St. Petersburg, and Copenhagen.


We had a lecture on the facade facing Maria Theresa Square. In the pictures I have up online, you can see what I'm talking about. Because the whole complex was built during the rule of Franz Josef, everything practically screams imperial. All of the lights in the Square have crowns on them. This detail was added later because they obviously didn't have electicity in the late 1800's, but was done to keep the continuity. Since you were meant to come into the Museum slowly, many details are on the facade that kind of tell you what to expect. On the upper level, you see the initials E and FJ separated by some leaves. These stand for Elisabeth and Franz Josef, the rulers of the time, just in case you forgot who had built the museum. Then below them, on the next level, are pictures of people painting and sculpting, so that you knew what to expect once you got inside. On each side of the door, there were two carvings. The left is Faust and Helene. Faust is a very famous German play, and Dr. Faustus, the main character, was searching for knowledge throughout this work. In this instance, that is what he represents -- the quest for knowledge. Helene, in ancient mythology, was the most beautiful woman in the world, and so represents beauty here. By marrying the two in one carving, the designer was telling visitors to the Museum that they were to search for knowledge through beauty. On the right side of the doors, there is a carving of Eros and Psyche. This is a marriage of emotion and spirit. The story of Eros and Psyche is also ancient mythology, and since I don't feel like typing it out here, if you don't know it, then you can google it really easily.

There are three great halls inside the Museum.



The central bay dominates the building´s centre and houses the State Rooms. Here are located the magnificent rooms that mark the beginning, middle and end of the museum: the » Entrance Hall, das große » Main Staircase and the central » Cupola Hall on the first floor.

The Entrance Hall

Entering by the museum´s main entrance on Maria Theresa Square, the visitor first encounters the classically cool, white, grey and black elegance of the Entrance Hall. The two smaller stairs on the left and on the right lead up to the ground floor exhibition halls.
From the Entrance Hall, the magnificent
» Prunktreppe
(Main Staircase), leads up past the statue of "Theseus Slaying the Centaur" to the first floor.



View from the Entrance Hall up into the Cupola Hall



Again, because you were supposed to be taking your time entering and visiting the Museum, you were supposed to be naturally drawn to the center of the room, from which you can go in the four compass directions. In front of you lays the Great Staircase, and to the left and right are wings to the rest of the Museum. On the right is the art from south of the Alps and on the left, from the North. I think its incredible the amount of thought that went into the construction of the Museum.


The Main Staircase is richly embellished with paintings. It is dominated by a large-scale » ceiling painting depicting "The Apotheosis of the Renaissance" by Mihály von Munkácsy.
Each of the four walls is decorated with three painted » lunettes; all the paintings in this cycle of 12 are by Hans Makart.
Note below the lunettes the » paintings in the spandrels and between the black-and-white columns. They are the work of the painters Gustav Klimt, Ernst Klimt and Franz von Matsch.





As you go up the Great Staircase, your eyes are drawn up to the painting on the ceiling. It is meant to make you feel like you are actually in the painting and that the stairs go all the way up to heavens. The painting depicts the great artists whose work is found in the Museum and Apollo presiding over his court in Olympus. You also see Fame, one of the gods from ancient mythology, holding the Palm of Fame and bestowing it on the artists below her.

The Staircase leads up to the magnificent and sumptuously decorated Cupola Hall linked by an opening in the floor to the Entrance Hall below. It is flanked by the Picture Gallery and overlooked by the balconies of the second floor. The colour scheme of the Cupola Hall´s interior decoration was carefully planned and creates a restrained contrast to the profusion of colours that marks the Main Staircase: the star-shaped designs of the geometric decorations of the black-and-white >> marble floor repeat the designs of the segments and ribs of the dome.



The eight segments of the dome unite to form a magnificent panorama of Habsburg patronage. Here the importance of the imperial family as collectors and owners of these magnificent collections is clearly spelled out for the visitor. From the Emperor Maximilian I to the Emperor Francis Joseph I, all important Habsburg rulers and patrons are assembled and depicted together with their achievements in >> reliefs and
>> portrait medallions
. The reliefs, the winged figures of children bearing coats of arms and monograms of members of the imperial family and the caryatids next to the windows are by the Viennese sculptor» Rudolf Weyr. The portrait medallions are by » Johannes Benk.


We walked through the Museum with our guide from IES. She teaches the Current Exhibitions course here. I was really more interested by the architecture of the building than by the actual art it houses, so I'm skipping over that. If I get back there in the next couple of weeks, I'll take some pictures and probably have more to write about.

Once the tour was over, we had to hussle over to IES for German class. We did more of the same, grammar and some culture. This is when it hit me that not breaking in my heeled shoes before I left wasn't my brightest idea.

After class, I sat down and did some blogging before it was time to find dinner. Matt and I met up with the girls from the flat and walked over to one of the Wurst and Pizza stands that crowd the streets. On the way there, we heard a police car, and it was actually coming down the walking area! The entire center city is cobbled and it's pretty much a walking-only area. I kind of laugh whenever I hear a police or ambulance siren because it reminds me of "Lola Rennt." Natalia almost got run over by it, but they stopped just before that happened.

We bought Käsekrainer (a wurst with meat and cheese inside served with or without a bun) and pizza for dinner, and then walked over to the Opera to wait in line. Of course, I managed to get ketchup and mustard on my clothes and had to walk around kind of dirty the rest of the night. But dinner was REALLY good. Now, since I'm running out of battery and I want to do something on the Opera like I did with the KHM above, I'm going to stop here and do another post when I get home.