Saturday, June 23, 2007

Through, But Not Including, May 11, 2007

Sunday, 4/29

On Sunday, we got up early to go see the Vienna Boys Choir. I met Mandy, Chris, and Aaron by the Opera House and we all walked back to the Hofburg for the performance. Life would have been a lot easier that morning except that there was a huge marathon, so all the streets were blocked off and it was a royal pain trying to navigate through the city using public transportation. Because Barbara had had to be up very early the morning before, she decided to sleep in and was just going to meet up with us later on.

Right outside the Chapel was a woman selling tickets. They were only eight Euro each, so we grabbed up four of them and went out for breakfast behind the Hofburg. There is a cute little café there, which has pretty decent breakfasts. I got some rolls and a mélange (this I will miss sorely when I get back home). The whole breakfast experience was a lot of fun and very chill.

Eventually, we had to leave our chill breakfast place and go to the Hofburg to watch/listen to the Vienna Boys Choir. Once we found our seats, we realized that they were behind a wall, which kind of sucked. I wanted to be able to see the little boys singing – it would have been cute. But I guess it was okay since the service lasted only about 45 minutes and I managed to entertain myself for the majority of the time by watching the orchestra. I know, I’m a very good pseudo-Catholic when I want to be. Anyway, it was just kind of “ehn” since I didn’t get to see anything. But afterwards, we had some spottings of the boys with their families outside the Hofburg, which was pretty awesome. I mean, who really expects to see a boy in a little sailor suit running around Vienna (Austria being landlocked and all).

We also wanted to fit in a morning workout of the Lipizzaner horses, but since it was a Sunday, they only had a performance. There was a man in the lobby selling his tickets, but the others didn’t want to pay that much to see the horses, so I ended up getting an 85 Euro ticket for only 50 and going by myself, which was totally okay. I can’t even begin to explain how excited I was that I was going to get to see the White Stallions.

The performance itself was incredible. Such precision is just amazing. The riders have amazing seats and hardly move at all, even when a horse is giving them a hard time. I even remembered some of the horses from the morning workout I had seen earlier, so I could pick them out. The Airs Above Ground was simply awesome. I can’t even tell you which was my favorite movement, but they were all so impressive. The show began with the flatwork, and progressed to the Airs Above Ground, then culminating in the eight riders that you see in The Miracle of the White Stallions. At one point, during the Airs Above Ground exercises, one of the horses fell over (this was without the riders – the riders were on the horses in the next set). It turned out that he was okay and after a few minutes of gaining his composure, he redid the exercise perfectly. But my heart pounded; let me tell you – I think everybody’s heart missed a beat when he started to tip. The whole performance was out of this world – it was so magical and perfect, and someday, when I go back to Vienna, I’ll watch my horses again.

Once the performance let out, I decided to tour the museum. The guided tour was only about two Euro more, and the guide was really excellent. She told stories and imparted a good amount of information about the horses, the breeding, the training, and even little tricks that the riders use (like making their deerskin breeches a bit wet before they get on the saddle so that they stick even better). She also explained some of the tack, which I found interesting. The saddles are made to fit each horse perfectly, so they don’t need a saddle pad at all. Instead, the cloth is tacked on to the back end of the saddle just for decoration purposes. But each cloth has a meaning. Red is for horses that are proficient in the ground exercises and green is for the horses that do Airs Above Ground. If the pad only has two plain gold stripes, then the rider is a student. Three denotes an Oberreiter and tassels are only used for the Director of the School. The guide also told us about the fire that the SRS experienced in 1992. At some point during the night, a fire broke out in the National Library, which is housed in the same complex as the Stallburg. Since it was so late, only two grooms were on duty, and there were about seventy horses in residence at the time. The fire department told the grooms that the horses had to leave because the fire was too large and the danger too great. Thankfully, the people of Vienna came to help as horses were led from the building, citizens came to hold the horses in the streets. Someone even had the great idea of putting them in the Volksgarten, which is really just down the road from the Stallburg. The Volksgarten has high fences, so the horses could be turned loose in there without the worry that they would escape and possibly get hurt. However, I’m not sure they took into account that these horses are stallions, which are typically more aggressive than mares or geldings. But the Lipizzaner are bred for a quiet disposition, so around noon, when all the horses had been caught and put back into their stalls, which were saved from the fire, it was determined that not a single one of them had a cut or bruise from their frolic in the park. The only collateral damage was to the park – the horses had destroyed the antique rosebeds and turned over several benches while they were pretending to be steeplechasers.

Joining up with Barbara and the boys in a café after the tour, I savored a mélange and Chris was nice enough to pick up the tab for it. Aww. We parted directions again since they wanted to see the Natural History Museum and I had just been there on Friday with the Mandy and Anna. About an hour later, we met up again, and Aaron and I had to wait forever for Chris and Barbara to come out of the museum. *shrug* Chris is a science major, I guess looking at preserved animals in liquid is his thing. Either way, we went to Bettlstudent for dinner before Aaron had to catch a train, and when we dropped him off at the Westbahnhof there was a rather awkward goodbye moment, climaxing when Chris actually pushed him to go to his platform. I think he wanted a hug or something, but for goodness sake, I only knew the boy for a day (and Matt probably would have been perturbed).

After Aaron was back on his way to Berlin via Salzburg, the three of us decided to go home and change (I was in a skirt) and then head over to the Donau Insel to rent some bikes. The Donau Insel is surprisingly easy to get to from my apartment even though it takes a long time – relative to other places I have to go, of course. It was a bit of an adventure figuring out how to actually cross the Donau and get to the island, but we let Chris lead, which is probably why we managed to get there in a reasonable amount of time.

We never actually found the bikes, but we did get some nice Germans or Austrians to take our picture because the classic arm-length shot just wasn’t working. Alright, I’ll just come out and say it – Chris was too tall and he has bad aim. :-)

Wandering around the island was really nice, especially since it was sunset, but people must have thought we were slightly nuts because we had to keep waving our arms and hands in front of our faces to keep the gnat-bug-like-things away. I think I swallowed one. Eww. Then we sat in the grass for a bit and talked about life…or more realistically, Barbara and Chris told me stories about when they shared an apartment last fall and I tried to take artsy pictures. Some of the pictures even came out – how cool. You can see them on my picasa page. I think they’re under Tourist Weekend 1.

April 30, 2007

Today we ventured to the Wienerwald. I’m not totally sure why, since I’m not an outdoorsy person and it seemed like that weekend I did a lot of outdoorsy things, but it was a fun time. Mandy couldn’t come since she had class, so it was just Chris, Barbara and me again. I felt kind of bad because I think Barbara might have wanted some alone time with Chris so they could catch up (they hadn’t seen each other since the end of fall semester).

The Wienerwald was interesting. Very green. And tree-y. And we got lost a lot. Like we walked a whole lot further than we actually intended to, and there were times I was worried that I might not make it back to civilization. Not really, but we all know how I tend to exaggerate. But we did get lost and walk a lot.

There were places to feed wild animals, even though we didn’t see any, outside of pre-teen Austrians on a class trip, and visitors are most definitely not allowed to feed anything!!!! There’re signs all over the place telling you that. I’m sure they say a lot more, like you’ll loose limbs to hungry boars, but we got the jist from the “VERBOTEN” part. Which is really all you need. And a picture. Those help a lot.

Eventually, it was time to find our way back out of the forest and make our triumphant return to civilization…except we missed the bus. Literally. So we got to walk back along the outside of the Wienerwald and find the U-Bahn stop we had gotten off at several hours earlier. And we got to see a construction site – I took pictures for my daddy. Sometimes I shake my head about how much of a Hess I am…this is one of those times.

Then it was back to the Westbahnhof to drop off Chris and IES to drop off Barbara. We wanted to go to dinner since we had gotten a 20 Euro (that’s about $26) coupon to Bettlstudent the night before, but we just couldn’t muster the energy. So we parted company – I, to become a hermit and plan out the extravaganza for the next two days, and Barbara, to work on papers. Just as a quick side note – Austrians have about a bazillion holidays and EVERYBODY celebrates them, which is why I had that Tuesday off (it was May Day). Then my econ professor cancelled class on the second, so I had an uber-long weekend. Unfortunately, the following weekend, I got sick, which really sucked, but I tried to go out and do things anyway. And I succeeded to a certain extent.


May 5, 2007

Even though I was sick last night, I managed to get my act together and meet up with Mandy and Barbara to go to the Naschmarkt. Barbara was going to buy some scarves and wanted some people to come along and bargain for her. Of course, I picked up some too, and so did Mandy. I also bought some really good bread and pretty purple pearls that I’m going to have Mom put a clasp on so I can wear them as a necklace.

After a quick lunch at the Anker in Karlsplatz, we headed to IES to listen to Lindsay’s sophomore recital. She plays the cello and is really super good. I was way impressed.

Then came the highlight of the day. Barbara had been talking about dyeing her hair a different color so Wini was going to help her pick out colors and do it for her. Mandy had previous hair-dyeing experience and I was pretty much there as moral support. Even though Barbara said I made doubtful faces throughout the entire event. I think I need to work on my sympathetic/supportive expressions. However, none of us really took into consideration that the directions would be in German. Since we didn’t want Barbara’s hair to actually die, we had to call in extra help, which is where Chris, Andre’s RA comes in. He lives above Barbara and Adrianne with Seth and Andre. Chris is from Berlin. And he’s self-proclaimed “hot.” *eyebrow* Either way, he read the directions for us and even stayed around to watch the results. I think at one point, we had about four people watching, two taking pictures, and one dyeing Barbara’s hair red. It was quite a production. But it actually looked good (I say actually because I’m really skeptical about hair-dyes and positive results). For the next few days, it was really weird to see Barbara with red hair, but after that, it was weird to see pictures of her from earlier in the semester with brown hair.

To celebrate the successful dyeing of Barbara’s hair, we went to Selbstverständlich. I still wasn’t feeling too good, so I only had a ginger ale, which is really disappointing since I love their schnitzel.


May 7-11, 2007

This was hell week. I didn’t do anything but work and write papers. And go to see “China Shipping,” the play that Sarah had been interning with all semester. It was really well done, and I enjoyed it a lot, especially since Sarah could tell me all about the deeper meanings of the play. But then I had to write a paper on it. Buzz-killer.

Tuesday, June 5, 2007

Catch Up Through Most of April

Mom and Dad’s Last Day or So (4/18ish)

So it was Wednesday night and I took Mom and Dad out to the 10er Marie for dinner. It’s the heurigen that I went to with the Schaubs when they took me out to dinner. You order food by weight and everything is absolutely amazing. We got half a liter of Grüner Veltliner and then a bunch of cold salads. I also made sure we got some Liptauer cheese and Daddy got a bunch of meat to try, but he didn’t want to share until he started getting full. Then Mom and I got to try some. For dessert, we got mélanges and some coconut macaroon sort of things. They were rather tasty. After it was all said and done, I was a bit tipsy and the waiter that wanted his picture with me remembered me.

Then we went back to my apartment so that I could pack up my life in Vienna to send home with them. It was a pretty big undertaking since they were repacking themselves at the same time, so we pretty much took over the entire floor of my room. For all the chaos that ensued, we managed to get everything home that needed to go home. And I could send a package at the end of the semester with all the chatzki that I collected in the mean time. Which is what I ended up doing.

The next day, I skipped my drama class so that I could have lunch with Mom and Dad one last time, especially since dinner wasn’t really an option – I had class and they had to get to the train station. We went back to Bettlstudent and I got the schnitzel again. I think that that is one of the only places in Austria that carries Pepsi products. And for what you pay, you get a good amount of soda. I was a happy camper J Then I ran off to IES for my last class of the day and met up with Mom and Dad afterwards. We ran back to the apartment and grabbed the bags, and then it was time to take them to the train station.

We had a bit of time before the train actually came, so we sat and chatted. Once they could get on the train, I visited with them for a bit, but since I didn’t want to go to Frankfurt, I had to make sure I got off in time. Mom was getting teary-eyed again, and I told her that if she didn’t cheer up I wasn’t going to come home. That fixed that problem. I’m starting to think that Mom is either getting more emotional or that she’s starting to like crying. I mean, she cried when she got here and then she cried when left.


Friday, 4/20

After class today, we set up a shopping date. It was bunches of wonderful fun, and I bought a dress to wear home. It’s a green halter sundress from H&M. I think it’s really cute, and pretty much absolutely adorable, and since Anna got the same one, we decided to wear them at the same time later in the week.

There was also a festival in front of the Rathaus. Apparently this goes on every year, and it was kind of like the Bloomsburg Fair, but with men in lederhosen and lots of yodeling and such going on. And of course, the customary wines and beers and pretzels. This was extremely entertaining because there was a live band there and the Austrians were really getting into their music – like clapping and singing and stuff. From a people who are known for lack of expression, this was pretty darn cool. And then Wini got in on the act, so we have video of her being silly.

After things split up for a bit, I ran home to drop off my things and grab my laptop because we were having a movie night at Andre’s before we left for Amsterdam the next day. There were a bunch of girls – maybe seven or so – and Andre and we all watched Euro Trip, which is a pretty nifty movie. It totally fits all the stereotypes of Europe. And so funny!! We laughed and ate cake and cookies and had an awesome time. Mandy and I were the last to leave, and Andre had to run my phone down to the bus stop for us because I had forgotten it in his apartment.


Saturday, 4/21

The girls (Mandy, Barbara, and Anna) and I met at the Westbahnhof at 10:00 so we could grab the bus to the airport. We got there just in time because a bus was leaving within about ten minutes or so. The ride to the airport took about an hour, so we chatted and talked about what we wanted to do in Amsterdam. Once we got to the airport, we checked in and searched for some fodder. I think I should have just gotten a sandwich from Anker before we left Vienna proper because airport food is ridiculously expensive and not so great. But they did have 7Up which was kind of exciting. It reminded me up the commercials back in the day with the red dots. After our snack break, we had about an hour before the flight left, so we chilled. I’m a fan of getting places early so I can relax and take it a bit easy (that, and being in Europe has made me figure in getting lost time whenever I go somewhere, so I usually end up being early – which is a good thing, according to my mom).

Finally it was time to hop on the plane and jet set across Europe to Amsterdam for about two days of fun. On board, I was next to Mandy, so we took pictures and I ended up sleeping for a bit, just to catch up from Mom and Dad’s visit – those parents of mine really ran me ragged!

About an hour or two later, we landed in A-dam and made our way to the hostel, which was situated very closely to the Red Light District. It made for a lot of fun. We were in an eighteen-person room, and it turns out there were a lot of snorers in there (they drove Barbara nuts – they would snore in chorus, so that by the time she coughed enough to wake one up to stop him from snoring, another would begin…lol). And the lockers were absolutely amazing – they were fifty-gallon drums, with a huge padlock that we had to put a deposit on to use. On our last morning, I was a bit worried that we’d have to climb in to get all our things out – those buggers are really deep! But the strange thing is that we didn’t put anybody in the locker to take pictures…opportunity lost. Next time, I suppose.

On our way out for the afternoon, we asked our friendly desk person about the tulip gardens. This really opened the guy up. He had been a bit standoffish before, but after that, he couldn’t do enough for us. It was kind of funny. Smiling really works J.

After we crossed the river on our way to the Sex Museum, we found one of the most amazing things ever – McDonald’s. Now, I know you all are probably really sick of reading about my Mickey D’s experiences, but it’s like a little piece of home everywhere you go. And you know that it’s always going to be the same, no matter what. Very comforting. And the fries were cheaper than they were in Vienna. That’s one thing I’ve noticed. I think I’m coming up with my own McDonald’s Fries Index, comparable to the BigMac Index, and the current trend is that the further south you go in Europe, the more expensive a small fry becomes. In Italy, the small is about 1,65 Euro, and I want to say it was only about 0,95 Euro in A-dam (Vienna, which was my base, ran 1,15 Euro at the Mickey D’s by IES). I’m not sure if the other countries make McDonald’s use potatoes produced in that country, but I know for sure that Austria does – oh, socialism, how I’ve come to appreciate you and your quirks.

Then, wonder of all wonders, fifty feet down the street from Mickey D’s was the Sex Museum. I’ll take my cue from Barbara and neither confirm nor deny whether or not I actually went inside, since some of the pictures that I may or may not have taken seemed to offend some people (I’ll be nice and not mention names). I’ll just say that it was very entertaining and that there was a sleazy guy that may or may not have followed us around as we may or may not have posed with various paraphernalia. Someday I’ll have the pictures from that glorious event, and if you’re nice and not of delicate sensibilities, you can see them.

The next stop on our first tour of A-dam was about another hundred feet down the street, and it was a fries place. In case you haven’t figured this out yet, I travel on my stomach, and places tend to have a food theme – Rome was gelato and now A-dam is French fries. These were particularly good, and decidedly fresh cut. We watched them make them right in front of us. They were kind of like wow. And yum.

At the end of all this, we found a carnival of some sort. I still don’t know what they were celebrating, but it was right in front of the palace, and the Netherlands’ idea of a small cotton candy is pretty darn awesome. Three of us split one, and it was the size of two of my heads – Barbara has pictures of that too, I think. Anna got a waffle that had hard chocolate on it and that was pretty yummy too.

Then we just wandered Amsterdam for a while. Since we were right by the Palace, we had a gaze at that and the New Church, which is right across the street. But both were closed, so we didn’t actually get inside them. Looking back, I think A-dam is one of the only places in Europe where I wasn’t in a church. How weird is that?

I also pretty much decided I loved Amsterdam because all the buildings have such character. They all tilt. And it’s completely hilarious because each house is maybe only twenty feet wide. The houses also all have a pulley system on the top of the house; I think they use them to get things up and down from the upper stories. This brings me to a side note: Stories in Europe are numbered differently than they are in the United States. At home, the bottom floor is the first floor, but here it’s called the ground floor and what would be the second floor at home is called the first floor here. Remember that because it causes some confusion later on, and I finally just started asking people which system they were using – American or European numbering.

Another interesting thing in Amsterdam is that everything is labeled with XXX. Now, I’m not sure if it’s because it’s known for the sex district, or the sex industry adopted the XXX because of Amsterdam, but either way, I found it entertaining. And it made for great discussion and pictures as we walked along the canals. Another side note – Amsterdam has a lot of canals. I think I like it better than Venice because you can also walk in straight lines in Amsterdam, but I’ll get to that later.

Somewhere along our walk, we decided that we should start hunting something up for dinner, and managed to stumble across a place called 1870, which was the year the restaurant was founded. It was a very chill place, and the food was really awesome. They had these big tables that people would share, or the waitresses would kick people out of that table if they wanted to use it for someone else. Initially, our waitress addressed us in Dutch, which sounds a lot like a mix between German and English, and it wasn’t until after she left that we realized none of us understood what she said. I guess it’s sort of a compliment because we must be starting to fit in and maybe even look European. One can always hope. I got the chicken dish of the day, which reminded me of chicken biryani. It came with rice and green beans. When we were almost done eating, a huge group of Americans came in, and this one guy had the most amazing 80’s reject jacket. It was kind of iridescent and yellow and purple all at the same time. I think somebody got a picture of that too.

After dinner, we ran back to the hostel to grab our coats before we hit the Red Light District. Even though it was really warm in Vienna when we left, it was still a bit chilly in A-dam. You’d think that after the Berlin experience where I practically froze my feet off that I would start realizing that the rest of Europe doesn’t have the same kind of weather that Vienna has – especially when you go north.

Anyway, then it was time for the Red Light District. Now, I think those of you not in your twenties should just skip the next couple of paragraphs because even though they won’t be explicit, you might not want to think of me in that area of A-dam. Let me just say that it was an experience. On the way there, some sleazy guy made kissy sounds at me, and I think it was the first time in Europe that I was uncomfortable at all in that way. It made me zip up my jacket to my chin and not want to look at people in the face. And it was so hard to do because I’m so used to looking people in the eye and being like, look at me. The male population in the Red Light District during the nighttime hour is predominantly male – duh. You have hookers in the windows of their businesses and they can beat the crap out of you if you take a picture of them. They stand and pose and make come-hither looks and gestures at the population on the street. I think one of the most disturbing aspects of this whole thing was seeing men actually leave the businesses and imagining what had just happened inside. And by the way, the lights in the Red Light District are actually red, just in case you were wondering.

Since the Erotic Museum is also in the Red Light District, we stopped in there. Now this was just downright funny. They had an animated video of a “dirty” Cinderella and a whole room decorated in a very sexual fashion with fairy tales as a theme. It was great fun watching the men drag their wives and girlfriends through the museum, especially when they saw a group of four young girls there, because the men would look slightly embarrassed and the women would just look exasperated or bored. At one point, I think on the third floor, there was a window where you could pose as a hooker, and yes, we did take advantage of it. Like I said, the whole thing was great fun. They also had fun condoms shaped like zebras or mushrooms, and for some reason, when I put in the money for one, two came out for me, so I gave one to Barbara. The gift shop area was great – we decided that we should throw bachelorette parties and import decorations and such from A-dam.

Since it was getting late, we decided to head back home, which required buttoning up and walking with downcast eyes until we were back on our street. Ice cream was required, and they actually have Ben and Jerry’s in A-dam, so we got a pint of Chocolate Fudge Brownie to split and a couple of waters. We sat in the hallway outside our room and had major bonding conversation, but first we had to walk through the bar that smelled distinctly like pot. It was kind of really gross, and as we walked through, we got The Look, which kind of examines you and wonders what the hell you’re doing there. After we downed the pint and all the water, we grabbed shower and hit the sack with our eighteen other roommates for a fun-filled night of chorus snoring (which I thankfully slept through).


Sunday, 4/22

Sunday we got to sleep in a bit, and were out of the hostel by 9:30. Friendly desk guy was there again this morning and gave us some tips on getting to Kirkengaard (?) which is what I think the name of the tulip garden was. We hopped a bus to the airport where the tour left from, and when we got to the ticket window at the airport and requested tickets for the tulips, the guy made fun of us!! He was actually really personable and teased us all about different things – I love when people are good at their jobs and actually like working.

The tulips were pretty nifty and we ended up spending over three hours in the gardens. In my notes about it, it says I have to research them some more, but since I’m writing this in a hostel in Munich, I don’t have Internet access, so you don’t get a whole lot of information about it. Anyway, our trip started out by fitting three of us in a pair of clogs near the front of the gardens and then wandering through taking pictures of flowers and illegally stepping on the grass. It was a bit nerve-racking trying to keep track of Anna, and we joked with her that she needed a harness like a little kid because she kept getting distracted by pretty things and climbing rocks to take pictures and we kept losing her for long stretches of time. J

We also found a windmill in the gardens. And I literally mean found because we neglected to get a map, so we really just wandered for a few hours. In front of the windmill was an orchestra or a band and I think I remember small children singing too. It all created a very nice atmosphere. I took about a gazillion pictures while we were in the garden, and you’ll get to hear more about that a little later. Finally, it was time to head back to A-dam so we could hit up a museum or so before it got too late.

On the list of things we still wanted to do in A-dam was visiting the Old Church. Now keep in mind that both churches are really old, but I guess it would make sense that the Old Church was older than that New Church. The Old Church is actually really close to the Red Light District, to the point that there are prostitutes in the windows across the street from the church. I guess that makes sense though – commit adultery and then you can stop off on your way to dinner for a confession. Seems like the Catholic way of doing things – very hypocritical.

Then we hit up the festival again for a very nutritious lunch – chocolate covered waffles. Yum. Afterwards, we stopped by some famous cigar shop so I could send home four to the boys for their graduation (the boys, in this case, being Matt and his roommates JJ, Tim, and Mike). They even had Cubans there, but I couldn’t even buy them from the shop because I’m American and because of the whole embargo thing that I’m pretty sure isn’t doing much to hurt the Cuban economy anyway.

Since it was getting late, we had to rush a bit to get to the Van Gogh museum, but on the way I made a detour to get a watercolor. It has all the houses leaning on it and a bridge that we actually passed in our wanderings. The one I wanted had better color than the other that was a similar scene, but because it was slightly bent, I got the guy to give me a break on the price. Yay!

Eventually we managed to find the Van Gogh museum, but it definitely took a couple of tries. We only had about half an hour inside the museum, but it was pretty darn cool. I managed to see everything that I wanted to, but they didn’t have some of the pictures that I know as Van Gogh – like the café scene or Starry Night. But they did have the one of the flowers and his self-portraits. After Mandy and I did a quick run-through of the gift shop to buy postcards of our favorite art, I made a video message that I sent to Mom and Erika. It was kind of nifty.

On our way to the Van Gogh Museum, we passed the IAmsterdam sign, which has letters that are about seven feet tall. We decided to do a group picture with it and then have each person take a letter so that we could put them together to be a banner or something. So we got on and played with the letters, making cute and/or funny poses with each, and I think they came out awesome. Barbara has the pictures, but I plan on stealing them from her facebook once I get home and have my external with me again.

After our playtime with the IAmsterdam sign, we wandered the town for dinner. Since we were in a shop so Barbara could buy batteries for her camera, we asked the very nice and helpful boy behind the desk for recommendations. Apparently there is a place in Amsterdam that serves only one dish, and is a bit expensive, but its amazing. However, since the dish was beef and Barbara doesn’t really eat beef, we ended up going to a really nice Italian place instead. I think we all got pizzas (mine was ham and mushroom and the other one that sticks out in my mind was Anna’s because she got banana).

Once we were back in “our” area of the city, I got more fries and we stopped in Mickey D’s for a soda. I don’t know how long we ended up staying there, but it might have been half an hour or so. Now the only thing that you can eat to top off fries is ice cream, and after our chill break, that’s what we did. It took a while to hunt it down, but we managed to find it after we cut through the Red Light District (which is very slow on Sunday evenings). I got a nice combination of chocolate and lemon.

Then we headed back to the hostel and our last night in the eighteen-person room.

Monday, 4/23

Today was our last day in A-dam. It’s kind of sad because we had such a good time. We had to be out by ten, but since our bags were light, we walked down to the Rembrandt Museum and looked at the art that they had there. It was really interesting because Barbara is an art history major, so between her and the explanations near each painting, we had a pretty good idea of what was going on. And we got to see “The Nightwatch,” which is Rembrandt’s most well-known work (I didn’t know it). But it was nifty all the same.

We also had to squeeze in a canal ride before we left, and there is a free one from the train station to Northern Amsterdam. We hopped on that and rode it back and forth, and I think some of the people watching us thought we were a bit nuts. But it was a good time.

Eventually it was time to start heading home for real, so we grabbed a train to the airport and then hopped a plane and were on our way home. During the flight, I took a bunch of pictures of the clouds and sky, but I think at some point I wanted to delete a picture that didn’t come out too good, and I ended up deleting the whole card without knowing it. When I found my mistake a few days later, I was sick. I had taken so many pictures of tulips and houses and everything else and it was all gone. Luckily for me, I was with three girls who take a bazillion pictures each, so when I get home at the end of the semester, I’ll go through their pictures and borrow them too.

After the flight, Mandy and Anna went one way to get home and Barbara and I went the other. I think we should have just followed Mandy and Anna because we ended up taking the wrong bus and getting off at Schottentor instead of the Westbahnhof. That part wasn’t so fun because I wanted to get home and take care of some things before I had to go to a play for my drama class later on. Either way, it turned out okay because I got home and managed to breathe for a few minutes before I had to leave again.

Höllenangst was a pretty good play. It’s about this guy who thinks he made a deal with the devil and sold his soul. The “devil” is actually another protagonist who gave the somewhat stupid man money for his shirt. The “devil” is actually married to a girl whose uncle is going to send her to a convent because he doesn’t know that she’s married. Pretty much it’s a whole big mess, but it was really entertaining (there was a lot of humor in it) and at times it was kind of trippy because of how the scenes were broken up with musical numbers. They had a guy that looked like he should have worked in Vegas come out in a white suit and sing in English (keep in mind that the entire play was in German). And then, after the play, it was time to go home and do some work.


Friday, 4/27

My time in Vienna is getting short and there is a lot I haven’t really seen. I think it’s because when you live in a place, you don’t really expect to leave it anytime soon and those things will always be there to see. But unfortunately, my time in Vienna wasn’t for forever (yet) so I had to get in as much sightseeing in my last two weeks or so as I could. I started out today with the Naturhistorisches Museum.

After classes, I met up with Anna and Mandy to hit up the museum. For the entire semester, they had been advertising an exhibit of the Bog People. Apparently, some people were buried in a bog or something and they were really well preserved – we’re talking hair and all, people. Well, that’s what I was going to see, but they were moved the week before. How sucky is that? But we got to see lots of preserved animals, most of which had really bad taxidermy jobs. Think crooked eyes and such. There were also a lot of things floating in jars, so I can’t say that this was my favorite museum in all of Vienna.

On the way into the museum, we passed a herd of the Mozart men (you know, the cape guys turned crazy jacket guys that I’ve mentioned before). I had the chutzpah (Matt, you should know that word) to take a picture of one of them and then he started approaching us. He spoke to us in English, and since I really didn’t want to deal with him, I told him that I only spoke Spanish (in Spanish). He kept trying to talk to us, but we just walked away and laughed. He saw us again on the way out and as he started to approach us, he stopped and said, “Oh, I remember you” and walked away. Oops. I guess my Spanish wasn’t as convincing as I thought it was. But I kind of feel bad because the guy was just trying to do his job, even if they are really annoying. You have to know that it’s a high point in my day when they don’t approach me – I take it as I’m starting to look less American and fitting in more.

After the museum, we declared it a frozen pizza night at my apartment, so we split up to do our shopping. I got a margarita pizza because those are the best froze pizza kinds and a watermelon for dessert. I also grabbed an Edelweiß beer since I had had one with Mom the weekend before in Salzburg, but it turns out that they make like three different kinds, and I think I picked the wrong one because it wasn’t as good. I think most of my roommates were home that night, and I felt bad, but I had to kick Alison and Jeremy out of the kitchen so we could use the oven. They were going to make a big meal, but they needed the oven for something ridiculous like two hours, and since the girls and I had plans to go to see “The Third Man,” we needed to use the oven more than they did.

Once pizza night was over, and after a few games of Uno, we (Anna, Mandy, and I) headed out to the Burgkino on the Ring. Barbara went home, I think to work on some homework because her friend was coming the next day and she needed to get ahead. But we made plans to meet and go to Schönbrunn the next day because I hadn’t been there yet. The rest of us met Wini outside the movie theater and bought our tickets. I can honestly say that the movie is pretty disappointing. I even fell asleep. I mean, I can see where it would have been important to Vienna as a city, but the entire storyline and such was corny and stiff. But to each their own, because Wini and Anna liked it.

Since it was after midnight by the time the movie was done, I had to take the night bus home. While I was waiting for it at Dr. Karl-Renner-Ring, a drunk guy came up and started talking politics with me. Now don’t get me wrong, I don’t necessarily agree with the war in Iraq and I don’t always like President Bush or his decisions, but he is my President and the United States is my home, and when somebody starts trash-talking them, especially when that somebody hasn’t been there and really doesn’t have a clue, then I’m going to get fired up. And that’s what I did. He started going off and saying that Americans should never get involved in world politics and yadda yadda yadda, which prompted me to tell him that had we not gotten involved in World War Two, then Austria would probably still be under Nazi rule and that he had no right to criticize my country when his was doing nothing against terrorism. Then the guy had the audacity to follow me onto the bus and try to continue the conversation, even though I was pointedly ignoring him since he was being ridiculous. The people around me started rolling their eyes at him and I was just so angry with him.

As much as I say I love Vienna and Austria, having that conversation with him really reminded me that in my heart I am an American and that I am proud of my country and its heritage. It may not be perfect, but when it comes right down to it, the United States is my home and I love it.


Saturday, 4/28

Because Friday was such a late night, we decided to sleep in a bit and I didn’t end up meeting Barbara at the Westbahnhof until noon. This might have been a problem, but her friend hadn’t shown up yet, so she was worried, but I didn’t feel like I was holding them up at all. Chris, her friend from home and her roommate last fall, was supposed to have been in the Westbahnhof by six, but he still hadn’t shown by noon. I don’t think he had her phone number, and she didn’t have his, so there was no real way to contact him. At one point, Barbara emailed him I think and sent him her number so that he could call her when he got to Vienna. Since we had nothing else to do except wait, we went to Schönbrunn.

The palace was pretty nifty. It was still all decorated like it was a hundred years ago, and we got audioguides to listen to as we went through the rooms. I still don’t understand why I’m not allowed to take pictures if I paid to get in the museum, especially when I don’t use flash anyway, but that’s the way of the world. And I’ve just gotten really good at taking covert pictures. About two-thirds of the way through the tour, Barbara got a call from Chris saying that he was at the Westbahnhof. She gave him directions to Schönbrunn and said she’d meet him at the UBahn stop.

I wanted to look around the gift shop for a bit longer, so we split up for a bit and Barbara said she’d call me when they got back to Schönbrunn. Well, I made it through the gift shop and part of the wagon museum, and then we ended up going in opposite directions in the gardens, so it took a while to meet up with Chris and Barbara, but eventually we did by the Gloriette, which is on top of the hill.

Chris is very nice. He’s been taking German, but he doesn’t want to do a major because he just likes the literature part of it and not the other stuff. Personally, I’m more of a fan of the non-literature requirements – they’re a lot more interesting. But it turns out that he was actually in a few classes with Matt. Small world. Anyway, Chris is studying in Berlin this semester and he’ll be there until December because he’s also taking an internship there.

After we had met up and taken some pictures of the views, Chris wanted to see the Belvedere, so we stopped there on the way back to the first district. I got to see the Garden Lust exhibit, which was kind of cool because they had a Monet, but the head exhibit, which is supposed to be really cool, wasn’t up because they were restoring it. That’s kind of disappointing, but I’ll get back to Vienna some day and I’ll get to see it then. I also got a call from Mandy at this point, so we met up with her before we went back to the Westbahnhof to meet Chris’ friend Aaron, who was also visiting for the weekend.

All five of us and Liz went out to dinner at Selbsverständlich for dinner. On Saturday nights, they run a happy hour where all the dinners are half price. It’s pretty much the sweetest deal in town, and I managed to go more than a few times over the course of the semester. Dinner was a lot of fun because both boys are very nice, but as all things are, there were some awkward moments. I’m starting to believe that you don’t grow out of your awkwardness during your teens, and that you really just stay awkward through your twenties. It’s the only explanation that makes sense.

Since the only way to end a meal is with gelato, we got off the UBahn at Barbara’s stop and had gelato at that Zanoni’s. I was also silly and wasn’t prepared for a night out, so we also stopped at Barbara’s apartment so the boys could put their things down and I could borrow a jacket from her. In case you haven’t noticed yet, I tend to be overly optimistic when it comes to temperature and weather, so I’m not generally prepared for when it gets cold or rainy.

Anyway, the boys, Mandy, Barbara, and I ventured into the first district so they could have a tour. We rode the Ring for a while and walked over toward the Secession Building, which I think might be Barbara’s favorite building in Vienna. It was a really good time, and as we were walking up Kärtnerstraße, I decided to branch off from the group and run for another gelato. It was pretty much my lucky night because my gelato guy gave it to me for free – how awesome is that??? Of course, I had been cultivating a relationship with him since January. Once I got outside, I gave Mandy a call and I sensed some serious jealousy on the other end of the phone J. What can I say? He’s my gelato guy and we have a special connection.

Tuesday, May 8, 2007

The Amazingness that is Hallstatt

So we got up early on Saturday morning and had a delightful breakfast with Walter and his wife, who own and run Haus Am Moos. I swear they have the best breakfast ever -- lots of rolls, jams, cakes, juice, tea, etc. And the company really makes the meal. Walter told us how to get to Hallstatt and then he entertained us with different stories and such. I think the conversation came around to me, and the man looked shocked when I told him that I was twenty. He looked even more shocked when I said my boyfriend was at home. Then he asked me about Andre, whom Barbara, Mandy, and I went to Salzburg with the first time around. We had to clarify that he was just a friend and that my boyfriend boyfriend was at home. It was slightly awkward and very funny.

Then we went into the center of Salzburg to catch the bus to Bad Ischl, where we would hop on a train to go to Hallstatt. Getting to Hallstatt is a bit of an adventure, but it's completely amazing. And worth it. The busride was very pretty, and just as we were getting on, I got a call from Matt, who was up very late for some reason (hmm...I wonder what it could have been) and wanted to call and tell me that he loved me. How cute :-) For the most part, though, I just took a lot of pictures on the bus, even changing sides when the views got better in one place or another.

Once we got to Bad Ischl, we changed transportation to a train. Originally, I think we were supposed to take another bus down, but the train was there sooner than the bus was, so that's what we did. The train ride was gorgeous, again. I'm really a fan of trains, and I think I'm gonna miss them a lot when I get home. I think I'm gonna miss a lot of public transportation when I get home -- this driving thing is very overrated.

When we got off the train, we followed the crowd down a small hill to a dock. Once you get off the train, you have to take a boat to the other side of the lake, where Hallstatt is. Our boat driver person (I can't think of the word in English) was awesome. He had the hat and the bushy moustache and the pot belly. It was the perfect slightly grumpy sailor look. And his first mate was exactly the same.

Picture-taking continued on the boat, and we wanted to get a group shot of the three of us, so I asked an older man to take our picture. Now Daddy, at this point, was pretty much convinced that I really didn't know any German, so he was kind of impressed that I knew how to ask this guy to take our picture. Then we had to explain to him how the camera worked. Finally, after we got the picture, the guy started up a conversation with us that lasted all the way across the lake. Actually, he was having a conversation with Daddy, who is an absolutely amazing conversationalist when he's talking to someone who speaks a different language (Just ask us to tell you about the Mick Jagger story...). He gets like a typical American tourist -- speaks very loudly and slowly and uses ridiculous hand gestures. It's the greatest thing to watch. Oh, Daddy. Anyway, Daddy and this man were having a "conversation" and then they got the bright idea of having me translate. So I got to have a conversation with the older man, who was very proud of being able to name all the states and their capitals in the US. He told us that he was from Linz and that he and his wife grew up near Salzburg, and he also said that Daddy didn't look like he was Austrian. And then, prepare for this, he said that I spoke very good German. :-) How awesome is that???

On the other side of the lake, we stepped off the boat and started on a trek to look for food. As we were looking, we were window shopping. And the old man found us, so we got to have another in-depth conversation with him about the United States and his son and such. I think I used more German that day than I do in a normal week.

I think Hallstatt only has one real street, and we walked the length of if foraging. Just as we were coming to the end, I heard someone call my name. When I looked over, it was Mary! She's in my German and Drama classes and she's also Mandy's roommate. How weird is it to bump into another IES person in the middle of nowhere Austria? But it turns out that they had a good tip for us for lunch, which was absolutely amazing. I think it might have been because I was so hungry. But there's this little local place all the way at the end of the road in Hallstatt that all the local people go to, and that's where Mom and Dad and I went for lunch. I think I had schnitzel again (it's been a very vegetarian semester, so I'm not going to pass up meat when I get the opportunity to eat it). Afterwards, we ordered a few desserts to share, which were all very good. We sat outside so we could look at the lake, and there were all these punky little boats that were going back and forth. On the other side there was a castle-like house that we took pictures of because Mom and Dad decided that that's going to be their retirement house. I'm all for that.

After a slow walk back along the main drag and a jaunt through the museum, we had to hurry over to the boat or else we wouldn't have made the train that was coming at 4:30. We got there just in time, after I got to be the silly tourist that ran through the village... So we took the train back to Bad Ischl, but once we got there, we realized that we lost the ticket for the bus, so we had some gelato (it was a major ripoff compared to Vienna) and walked back to the train station because we could take a train to Salzburg. We got there just in time again, hopped the train, and bought our ticket en route. We were headed up toward Linz and switched trains to go to Salzburg.

Once we were back in the 'burg, we headed back to Haus Am Moos. I'm not really sure what happened for dinner that night, but it was probably really good.

The next morning (Sunday, April 15) was a lazy day, and we didn't get down to breakfast until about 8:30. Then I think we spent about an hour and a half or so chit-chatting with Walter and his wife about recipes and places to eat in Salzburg. They suggested a few places to try, so we planned our day around where to eat.

We grabbed the bus into town and walked along the cool sign street. I still don't know the name of it, but they have really cool signs. Since everything is closed in Austria, and probably most of Europe on Sundays, we got to do a lot of window shopping. Daddy really likes the tradition costumes with the Dindrl (the skirt like thing for women) and the nifty jackets and hats for men. After a few hours of looking in windows and lusting after awesome shoes, we decided to break for lunch.

Today we went to the Sternbräu, which is a restaurant in the older part of Salzburg. The food was good, but the service was horrible. Our waiter was the biggest grouch I've ever seen. And honestly, I don't plan on going back.

During lunch, we had a really nice discussion about economics and what was going on with the business, and I put in my two cents, but I'm not sure if it'll play into any decisions or not. Either way, I got to feel smart around my Daddy, which is really important to me. I love conversations like that.

After lunch, we headed up to the Fortress. We had all been there before, but it was nice just to take lots of pictures up there. This time, instead of walking like I had done the time before, we took the Funicular (?) up to the top. It took like 3.25 seconds to get there -- keep in mind, it took about half a hour to walk up there the last time I was at the fortress. So we wandered around the fortress for about an hour or so, and then because it was so warm, we decided to take a break at the restaurant that they have up there. They have the most gorgeous views.

While we were there, there was a little bird who was very noisy and very nosy. He would hop around the tables looking for scraps, and at one point, a lady a few tables down ordered a huge souffle. When she was reading her book, the little bitty bird hopped over and sat on the edge of her plate, like "wow, I really hit the motherload this time!" But then he got scared off by something and by the time he came back two minutes later, the remains of the souffle had been taken away by the waiter.

It was starting to get a bit late, and we had to find the other restaurant that Walter recommended before it got too dark and we couldn't see, so we hopped back on the funicular and started the trek back out to Haus Am Moos. The restaurant was only a couple of stops away from the B&B, so we asked the driver, and she let us off right in front.

Walking into the gasthaus was a bit awkward because all of the locals sitting outside gave you "The Look." It wasn't so bad inside, and the schnitzel was absolutely amazing. Mom and I split a lot of things so we could each try two things at one meal. It's one of the best plans ever. I think we had strudel that night too.

After dinner, it was definitely dark out, but we decided to walk back to Haus Am Moos since it was only a few stops -- how far could it be? About a mile and a half later, we made it back to the B&B, and told Walter that we really enjoyed his recommendations.

Monday morning was our last breakfast at Haus Am Moos, and we spent a lot of time chit-chatting again. It really is an amazing place, and Walter and his wife are incredibly charming. They laughed at me for coming back, and even more when I told them I'd be back in a month or so with my sister and Paul, but how could I stay anywhere else after staying there?

Following another leisurely breakfast, we went out to town and grabbed a train back to Vienna. We had to leave a bit early so I could get back and work on some things for the next week. So we got back and I dropped them off at their apartment/hostel and ran home to crank out some major work.

The rest of Mom and Dad's visit will be in the next post and then...AMSTERDAM!!!

Monday, May 7, 2007

Hullo, Mom and Dad

Once I got home from Rome, I barely had time to get settled and enough work done to cover me for Tuesday and Wednesday, and Mom and Dad were in town. It was really only the week before I left for Rome that their plans were finalized. Needless to say, I was incredibly happy to see them. I think they missed me!

Mom and Dad got in around 7:30 on Tuesday (that's April 10, for those of you worried about dates at home) and I met them at the train station. Mom was so happy to see me that she cried!! She seemed to do an abnormal amount of that during the time she was here. I guess she missed me a lot. Daddy only cries when I leave for college or Austria, not when he gets to see me again. I think he makes a bit more sense.

Anyway, we took their suitcases to their hostel/apartment and then ventured into the first district for dinner. There is a restaurant that isn't too far from IES that I took them too. It's called Studentenbettl or Bettlstudent, I'm not sure which. But that doesn't really matter since I know where it is. I think we all got schnitzel that night. Dad got his with fries and a beer and so did Mom. I got mine with the potatoe salad and a glass of wine. I think I shocked Dad with how much I could eat, especially after I said that I wasn't particularly hungry. I mean, I did clear the entire plate and eat all of my potatoe salad. Then I think we ordered an apple strudel to share, and I ate a large part of that too. Then since it was getting late, as in heading toward midnight, we figured out how to use public transportation to get them home. I'm pretty sure it was well after midnight by the time I got home, but it was so good to see them. A little weird since it was like two worlds colliding, but I was really happy that they came. Over dinner, they caught me up with all the things that had been happening at home, and I heard all sorts of stories about the horses eating baby Matthew's hat and different things that happened to Erika, including her meningitis/tonsilitis thing. Poor Pooks.

I met Mom and Dad again on Wednesday morning at their apartment so we could go to breakfast and to see the Lipizanner stallions doing their morning exercises. Since they were running behind, they didn't get to eat breakfast and we went right to the horses. It was pretty darn cool to see. There weren't many Aires Above Ground, but I had a fun time just watching them practice. I could see how it would get boring if you didn't ride or have a background in horses, but when you can pick out if a rider is struggling or a horse is giving someone a hard time, watching them practice becomes a lot more entertaining. We watched the whole practice, which lasted about two hours, and then I think I took my parents to Wolfganger (?) for lunch. Again, its one of those things where I know where it is, so I don't have to bother with names. Then I had to run to class because my econ class meets only once a week and its my favorite class, so I try to not miss it (aka, I haven't missed that one at all this semester).

After class, Mom and Dad were waiting for me outside of IES. We walked around the first district for a while and window shopped. And actually went in the H&M's because there were some things I had wanted to try on and Mom liked their window displays. After our shopping adventures, we went to Billa to stock them up on the essentials -- beer and cake. Literally. We got them a bunch of different beers to try (I don't touch the stuff) and some cakes for them to eat for breakfast. Then we went to dinner at a Gasthaus that I know of in the first district. Dad liked this one too. I think we had schnitzel again, and Mom got something with a creamier sauce and mushrooms which was very good. For dessert, we walked up to my gelato place near Stephensdom. If you haven't heard already, this place is amazing. I've been cultivating a relationship with one particular gelato man and up until this point he hadn't given me a break on my gelato. However, since I visit him at least once a week, it had to be coming soon. Then we sauntered back down Kärtnerstrasse so we could get Mom and Dad home since it was getting late again. I rode with them on the way home, and then got myself home not too much later. (All of the time Mom and Dad were here, I pretty much only slept at my apartment -- I'm not sure my flatties knew I existed because I'd get in really late and then be out again really early).

On Thursdays, I have class at eight, so I wasn't going to meet Mom and Dad until after German. I can't exactly remember what we did that day for lunch, but I'm sure it was something nice. Then I had to run back to IES for my afternoon classes. I skipped my second class that day and instead we tried to get on line for Stehplatz at the Opera to see Fille de Regiment, which was supposed to be amazing. However, the line was out the door and they didn't expect anyone to turn in their tickets prior to the performance, so we had to scrap that idea and decided to go shopping again. I felt really bad that they didn't get to see an opera while they were here, but I'm definitely going to try to take Paul and Erika to see something when they come. For dinner that night, we had Käsekrainers from the stand on Würstel-street. That's not really the name of the street, but that's where the stand is, so in my mind it works. It's like IES isn't really on Johannesgasse, it's on Mickey D's Street because that's the sign on the corner. I think it makes a lot of sense, even if you don't.

On Friday after my German class, I met up with Mom and Dad at their apartment. They were already checked out, so I helped them take their luggage to my apartment where we would keep it for the weekend since we were going to Salzburg. After we dropped off the luggage and they had met Ellie and Rosa, our cleaning lady that I really don't want to make angry, we went for lunch in the first district and then walked over to the Naschmarkt. On the way, we got some fries from Micky D's and Mom agreed that they tasted different from home. Still good, but different.

Daddy absolutely loved the Naschmarkt, which is like a huge farmer's market. He even bought some clementines, those crazy little oranges. Mom and I made the scarf sellers happy because we cleaned out a lot of their stock. I don't even want to think about how many we bought. But it was a lot. We had to carry them with us to Salzburg because we weren't going back to the apartment before we left, so it's a good thing that they fold up really small and aren't that heavy, even when you buy them in bulk.

On the way to Salzburg, we mostly read on the train. I'm pretty sure I took a nap because by this point in the week, I was really tired. All of this running between classes and entertaining Mom and Dad had really worn me out. Don't get me wrong, I loved that they came, but it was a rough week and a half. We got into Salzburg around six or so, and bought tickets to use the buses for the weekend. Then we walked over to Spaghetti and Co, a nifty little restaurant on the street with the really cool signs. I was impressed because Dad said it was nice to have a bit of a break from schnitzel for a while. I never thought I'd hear him say that, especially since all he'd been talking about before he came was how much schnitzel he wanted to eat.

And then I got to introduce them to the marvel that is Haus Am Moos. I absolutely love this B&B. Andre found it last time we went to Salzburg, and the people remembered me from before, which was pretty darn amazing. That night, we checked in, and went right to bed because it had been a busy day. However, we asked Walter, the owner, where he thought we should go on Saturday because we thought he might have some suggestions. He actually told us to not go to Innsbruck, because he said the only thing that was there was the "goldene Dacherl" which is the golden roof, but in the diminutive form because the Austrians tend to make fun of it. Instead, he told us that we should go to Hallstadt, the most picturesque (in my opinion) part of Austria that I've seen. He said it was an excellent day trip. So that's what we decided to do. And that's what I'll tell you about in the next post!

Goodbye, Rome

Sunday, April 8, 2007 -- Easter

Today we had to be up at an ungodly hour, and Meghan actually got up without complaining too much. But I guess it's because Easter was pretty much the pinacle of her religiousness. Whatever. Either way, I was up at five and got all my packing and such finished. We had to unlock the door from the outside again, but at least we didn't get locked in.

And now is where Meghan's lack of forethought gets to come into play. Because she didn't pay on Saturday when she was leaving, and we got back too late for her to pay the night before, she tried to pay this morning, and when they told her that she couldn't pay until after 7:30, she had a hissy fit. Apparently, the rules don't apply to those that are so religious. Except at CFab, which wouldn't bend to her will. All she could do on the whole ride into Rome was complain about them when, in reality, it was her own fault for not reading the signs. I certainly didn't have a problem with CFab at all. I thought it was an excellent little campground that was very secure and a nice break from the city. But since we would have to come back anyway so Meghan could pay, we decided to leave our things in H-62 so we didn't have to carry them around or pay for a locker in the Termini.

We got to St Peter's around 7:15 and there was already a good-sized line. We got to talking to the family behind us, and they have a niece who graduated from Penn State the year before. So we talked about what we were doing for our study abroad and what we were majoring in at Penn State. It was a very nice conversation.

Then something caught my eye across the street, and it turns out that Laura, a girl from IES Vienna, was in Rome. I ran over and called her name, and I think she was a little surprised to see me there. In fact, I was surprised to see her there -- I didn't know who else was going to be in Rome during break, and it seems like a large number of the people I know in IES were there. I invited her to come stand in line with us, and she said she would, but she had to grab the girl she was staying with. Jordan, her friend, is doing a study abroad in Rome this semester, so Laura had a place to stay right in the city.

We got inside and got aisle seats, which meant we'd get to see the Pope when he walked in. Since we had a couple of hours before the Mass actually started, I amused myself by taking a million pictures of the SG's. I think the one that I took a lot of pictures of knew I was, because after a while, he started smiling for them. How cute.

Then there was a parade before the mass started. There were bands and more SG's -- these had spears!! It was kind of cool, a little bit like the Fourth of July. Then the religious folks started marching in. Near the end was the Pope, who is a surprisingly good walker. I don't know why, but I was under the impression he couldn't walk much since I had only really seen him either in the Pope-mobile or sitting on his Pope-chair.

The mass was pretty. There was a lot of repetition again and lots of languages. There was also a bit of singing, but not as much as we have at home, which I missed a lot. One of my favorite parts of going to church is the hymns, and although there were chants in Rome, there really was no singing. One priest at the Way of the Cross on Friday put it very well. He said the further you get from Rome, the more joyful and beautiful the services are. I think the politics of the Catholic church really interfere with the actual love of God, and it seems like I'm not the only one who thought so.

After the service, there was an extended blessing by the Pope. And by extended, I mean somewhere around twenty minutes. The man is long-winded. I was pretty impressed because I could follow some of it. I'm not sure if I was actually starting to remember my Latin, or what, but it was pretty cool.

From there, I said goodbye to Laura and then Meghan and I headed back to CFab so she could check out. After she had paid up, we went to the Termini and left our bags in storage for a few hours while we went to dinner.

Dinner was over by the Pantheon again, just because it felt like it had become a tradition. We were back at the first restaurant we tried over in that area, and I got the lasagna with white wine and tiramisu for dessert. It was so weird to not be eating ham and scalloped potatoes for Easter dinner, and it really didn't feel like Easter at all. I think that that has been one of the things I miss most about being abroad -- holidays with the family, because when it comes right down to it, I'm very much a homebody. I love being able to go home and see my family and friends and pets. It's nice because I know that no matter what, they'll always be there for me, and that's the best feeling in the world.

Then it was time for one last Roman gelato. We went back to the place that remembered us and I got a medium almond. Up to this point, I had only bought small cones, but since it was my last day, I decided to splurge a bit and go for the big one. It was pretty much amazing.

Then we headed back to the Termini to pick up our bags and Meghan bought a phone card to call home and let her family know that she was still alive and well. It took us both a while to try and figure it out, and then since neither one of us is proficient at phone card usage, she just gave up and called collect. It worked out a lot better. After Meghan talked to her family, we got on the train and prepared for our trip home.

We were in a cabin with two people who were dating, a grumpy old woman, and a very talkative old man. The man and the couple talked for several hours, and then we all went to sleep. Then a few hours later, like four, the old man started up again and talked until about five in the morning. By that time, I was wide awake and I got to watch the sun rise over the Alps. It was absolutely amazing, and I didn't realize how much I had missed the mountains while I was in Rome.

Around 9:30 we got back into Vienna and headed for the apartment. I had a paper to write that was due on Tuesday, and Meghan used the day to recup from the train ride.

Finally, A Day to Myself

Saturday, April 7, 2007

Thank God for little miracles. Because Meghan's friends from Galway were in Rome, she was going to sleep in and then meet up with them. Which meant I had a whole day to do whatever I wanted without having to look over my shoulder for Meghan, who consistently walked a pace or so behind me. Probably giving me death glares.

The day started off not so great because we got locked in the mobile home. The carpet had gotten stuck under the door and we couldn't unlock the door at all. Even from the outside. And I know this because I reached around through the window to try and unlock it with the key. Finally, I just jumped out of the window and walked down to the desk to let them fix it. They called someone and he had it fixed by the time I was back up there to get my bag. I left the key with Meghan because she was going to be in the room for a while longer and I went down to the desk to pay my balance. The cash register is only open from eight in the morning until eight at night, and I thought I'd be back after that and we'd have to leave before eight the next morning in order to get to St Peter's at a time when we could get in line and get a good seat. Apparently, Meghan missed the register hours memo, but we'll get to that later.

I had a very nice discussion with the woman at the desk about Catholicism. We agreed on a lot of points. She also believed that priests should be allowed to marry, which we agreed would decrease the number of sex scandals. I also think that women should be allowed to become priests. It's already allowed in other branches of Christianity, so why not? Nowhere in the Bible does it say that only men can be priests. In the course of our discussion, we also talked about other ways the Church needs to update. The woman really liked John Paul II and the reforms he was introducing in the church before his death, and she was concerned that Benedict wouldn't continue with those progressive reforms.

Eventually, I had to get going, but I really enjoyed our conversation. At the end, I paid my balance and said "grazzi," to which she replied "grazzi te," which is pretty much like saying thank you too. Then she caught herself and looked a little embaressed, but I thought it was cool.

My first stop of the day was Pincio Hilll, which overlooks Piazza dell Popolo and has amazing views, especially early in the day. I spend about two hours up there just walking and taking pictures. It felt completely seperate from the city, kind of like the Palatine Hill did. Up there, it was really nice and shady, a good break from the hot sun. There were also a lot of runners, bikers, and dogs about. Then I walked along the Via Belvedere to the Spanish Steps.

Today the Spanish Steps had all their flowers out, and even though there were still a lot of people there, it was definitely much better than the last time I had been here. It was also relatively early, so there weren't quite as many people as had been there earlier in the week.

On the way to the metro, I got a gelato. This time, the flavors were baccio and pine nut. The pine nut was really, really good. It tasted just like Mom's Christmas cookies. And the girl that served it was extremely happy and chipper.

I took the metro down to San Giovanni in Laterno because I didn't feel like traipsing across the city again. I have to say, I think this might have been my favorite church in Rome. It was grandiose, surely, but it was also tasteful. So many of the big churches got into the whole "let's just make everything gold" that they forgot to also make it beautiful. San Giovanni was gorgeous. There is also a cloister attached to the church, and I went in the courtyard there to look around. It was another one of those havens that was away from the city and all the hustle and bustle of so many people. I have to say, it was one of those beautifully tanquil places, and I'm so happy that I found it.

After a brief lunch break on San Giovanni's stairs, I decided to walk over to the Capitoline Museum. This was one of the ones that Barbara recommended that I see, and she's usually really good about which musuems to see and which to skip.

The Capitoline was pretty darn cool. They had a lot of old statues, but there weren't a lot of paintings. I'm more of a fan of paintings, just because some of them are of places I've been to or things I've seen, and I like to read about what the artist was trying to capture in that particular painting. I have to say, the Capitoline was much bigger than I expected. I'm glad I took the time and went there. It even managed to capture my attention for a few hours (usually I duck out after an hour and a half).

Since it was still early in the day, I read some of my book by the Piazza Venezia. I managed to get pretty far in it, which was impressive because it was all in German. Then I got a call from Matt, which was so nice because I hadn't talked to him for a few days. After that, it was getting late enough to consider dinner, so I wandered over toward the Pantheon and watched a little girl playing on a ramp for a long while. She was really cute. :-)

Then I got a text from Meghan inviting me to dinner with her and her friends over by the Colosseum. I figured, why not? and started on my way over. Dinner was good, the pasta was more like homemade and the wine was nice. Afterward, we went for gelato. I got black cherry and Bounty, which is kind of like Almond Joy. As we were saying our goodbyes, one of her friends told us to stick together and not seperate again. It was like we were twelve years old. I think he got the *eyebrow* for that. Mostly because that wasn't the only jibe that was aimed in my direction during dinner and gelato.

But then we went back to CFab since it was going to be a very early morning, we needed to get o bed early. As it was, Meghan had forgotten to pay her balance earlier and was going to try and do it that night. Since it was after eight, of course they wouldn't let her pay. Duh. Someone at the desk told her that she could pay in the morning, but I don't think they expected us very early in the morning. Either way, I was all good, so I went back to the camper and took a shower and packed my things.

So This is Why People Wanted to be Christian in the Old Days...

Friday, April 6, 2007 -- Good Friday

Since we were going to be in a different room tonight and on Saturday night, we left our things at the check-in desk.

Then we headed into Rome. For some reason, maybe because it was Good Friday, the metros were ridiculously busy. On today's agenda was touring St. Peter's, so that's where we went first.

The line was CRAZY. It wrapped almost all the way around the outside of the square. So we got online and entertained ourselves, probably for a long time, I don't really remember. Finally, we got inside. St. Peter's was gorgeous. I was really impressed with La Pieta, the Michelangelo statue that's in the Vatican. It's the only statue that Michelangelo carved that bears his signature. Apparently, it used to be out in the open, but they put it behind glass a few years ago to protect it.

There were a lot of statues and paintings and even some relics of dead people. It was pretty darn impressive. And I have a lot of pictures of St Peter's in my photo albums. There's a total of 630 Rome pictures, so it might take you a while to get to them, but they're worth it. Actually, the whole album is worth looking at.

Then we went to the Treasury, where you can't take pictures. The audio guides were only so-so, but some of the things they had on display were cool. I got to see Pope John Paul II's ceremonial robes, which was kind of nifty. Apparently, he was a really popular guy.

From there we went through every single religious kitsch gift shop that existed in the place. Now it's one thing to have this crap outside of a church, but for some reason, I find it very offensive to have them selling religious kitsch in the middle of St. Peter's. And I'm not even Catholic. You'd think that somebody would have said, "Hey, this isn't so cool. Let's ditch the gift shops in favor of more confession booths. Or better yet, collection boxes." Honestly, some of the things they sell are true crap. It's ridiculously tacky -- where the shops are located, what's in them, everything. Can you tell I was getting fed up with the paradoxes the Catholic church presented me with?

From the kitsch, we went into the catacombs, and we go to walk past all the dead popes. Including JPII. There were a lot of people whispering and praying, probably because he's on the fast track for sainthood -- beafication is the word for it, I think.

We would have gone up into the dome of St Peter's, but it was closed. That was kind of too bad, I missed having heart pounding moments in high places while I was in Rome.

Since we only had a couple of hours before it was time to get in line for Good Friday Mass, we decided to stay near the Vatican for lunch. Big, big, big mistake. It was the biggest ripoff I've ever seen. I had catalloni, wine, bread, and a cuppiccino for the "low, low price" of twenty-nine Euro. How ridiculous. I was pretty perturbed about that. And three-eighths a liter of wine is officially enough to make Amanda somewhat tipsy.

Afterwards, I got dragged to look at MORE religious kitsch. Yay. I even considered getting a rosary for Matt, since he's Catholic, but then I asked myself why I would support a business that was so tacky. So he didn't get one. I'm sure he'll survive.

Then I got my gelato treat. Today was wafer and ferraro rocher. It was so-so. Some of the other flavors I had tried were so much better.

And then we stood on line. Again. And it was even longer. And I got to listen to rounds of Hail Mary's and Our Father's for what felt like forever. I wonder if people say them to pray, or because the sheer repetition of them, with the way the syllables work out, is calming. Probably a little bit of both.

Eventually we got inside, but there were too many people, and all I could really see of the Mass (because you can't say service when it's Catholic *rolls eyes*) were the people in front of me falling asleep. It was very exciting.

And then the proverbial SHTF. It was time for communion again, and Meghan was having a religious fit, because how dare I go and offend her by recieving communion. To which I told her to get off her high religious horse and that I was offended that she, a mere mortal, would try and tell me when, where, and how to practice my religion. Growing up, I had been told by my mother, who is a Catholic, that it was perfectly acceptable to receive communion. And now, you may want to skip down a bit because I'm going on a religious rant.

This whole communion thing is why I don't like the Catholic church. They make themselves out to be better and higher than everyone else, and honestly, by refusing to let people that aren't in the "Club" to receive communion or practice their own religion, not only are they hindering the spread of Christianity and Catholicism, but they are turning people off of religion completely. I think the whole thing is absolutely inane and ridiculous. As a Lutheran, I practice almost the same religion that Catholics do -- we say the same Nicene Creed, we pray to the same God, and celebrate the same holidays. Yet, because I believe that Jesus was only figuratively saying "eat my body and drink my blood," I'm not allowed to partake in Catholic communion. It's not like the man chopped off a finger and told his disciples to chew on it, which is pretty much what Catholicism is telling you to believe. I mean, can you imagine coming from a different society and different religion, and hearing this, and thinking to yourself, "These people are barbarians. They believe they are eating actual human flesh and drinking human blood." In case the Catholic church didn't get the memo, that there is called cannibalism. Additionally, all of the rules that the Catholic church makes are MAN-MADE RULES. God didn't say that you had to believe that a punky little wafer was Jesus' flesh. He just wanted you to believe in God. So pretty much, I have a thing against the Catholic church, and it all developed because of the hypocracy I saw while I was in Rome. Some of which was demonstrated very well by Meghan.

Now getting back to the whole Communion thing. When I told Meghan that she was offending me, she, like any second grade child anxious to tattle, said, "It's my duty to tell a Priest about this." Big deal. So I looked at her and said, "Be my guest," knowing that she'd never have the chutzpah to do it.

After the Mass, which ended pretty much immediately after Communion, Meghan got up with her self-righteous religious indignity and stomped off. I was so upset by her behavior that I called Mom and talked about the whole thing with her. She got upset that I was in Rome by myself, but I didn't think it was a big deal. I was going to the Colosseum for the Good Friday thing going on there, I had a map, and I knew how to get home that night. Besides, I'm not a self-described weeny like Meghan is. It was far enough into the week and I was comfortable enough with Rome to handle it. So I did.

Once I got off the phone with Mom, I walked over to the Colosseum to get a good place for the night's event. They were going to read the Way of the Cross. People were everywhere and it was so beautiful. I loved listening to the Latin. In the Masses, the Latin I had heard was very stilted and not read very well, but here it was melodic and soothing and absolutely amazing. When you add in the candles that people were carrying and the way everything was lit, I could understand why people would have wanted to be Christian over two thousand years ago. It was simply awe-inspiring. I don't even have the words to descripe it, but it will stay in my mind as one of the most beautiful things I've ever done.

Then it all shattered when I got a text from Meghan. She was being a weeny and wanted to meet up to go home together because she decided that "it wasn't safe" to do alone, even though there were a bazillion religious fanatics running around Rome at this point. I sent her a text telling her that I wanted an apology first and that she was out of line. I think I also might have said that I could find my own way home without her. It seemed that she had found some of her Galway friends in the crowds so she had someone to complain to about me. Darn.

Either way, we met up and stomped off to the metro station to go home. I don't think I talked to her the entire way. And it's still not something I regret. This was my vacation, something I dreamed about doing for over a year before I came to Vienna, and I was not going to let her and her religious prejudices spoil it for me.

This time, when we got to CFab, we were put in H-62, half of a mobile home. It was really nice, much better than our Chalet, which really wasn't all that bad. And that's when I decided to take Erika and Paul there when we were in Rome. Eventually, we reached a truce about this whole communion thing -- pretty much that she had to turn a blind eye. Which was more than fine by me.